1. Sounds like it.

2. There are several parts that need to be replaced - not the whole board necessarily - read post 1 of this thread carefully - ICs, resistors, board checked for cracked solder - parts cost well under $100 if you don't replace the board.

3. I would move on unless - see 5...

4. They should last "forever" once they're fixed. The original ICs typically lasted 2-6 years depending on use, however, the repaired ones (if you get the correct ones and the repair is done properly, including the resistors) are better and should last for the remaining life of the TV, or at least as long as the original parts.

5. I'd try to negotiate with whomever fixed your TV and get it repaired again for much less money - say $100-$200 (or for free), since the repair should have lasted much longer. Of course, they may simply say that a different part failed - but it really depends on the outfit that did the repair... The fact that a part has a 30 day warranty, doesn't mean that the place will leave you high and dry, although they can...

Hi 57 and All,

I have a 60sdx88ba that lost convergence a few weeks ago and thanks to this forum I was able to replace the ic's and get it running again. However I still have an issue with the convergence. When I place the set in DCAM mode I can't get the Blue to center. The lines are verticle and horizontal with no curves and the red will move as it should and line up but the blue wont budge. I did replace a couple of resistors but maybe I missed one? Any ideas.

Thanks
Rick

Perhaps missed a resistor, perhaps mis-soldered (shorted) one of the ICs... Did you purchase the kit from the place linked to in post 1 of this thread? It would have contained all the necessary parts...

Thanks for the quick reply 57. No I did not buy the kit. Actually this is the second time I have had to replace the IC's, that time I had not seen this forum and was unaware of the "Cheap IC" problem and after 8 or 9 months they went bad. I did not replace any resistors and the set worked great. This time I tested the mentioned resistors but only 2 were a little off so I changed them and replaced the IC's with quality one's. I will go back and recheck the resistors and soldering job again.

Thanks for the help.
Rick

Hope someone can help! My convergence board is bad and have read thru all of the post. Lots of info on replacing the IC's and resistors but i would like to just replace the whole board. Does anyone know where i can purchase one or even if this is possible? Thanks:

Contact Hitachi. If they have a board available, the cost is about $3-400 and they usually "trade" boards - ie, they send you the new board and you send them your old one (for which they may give you a small credit).

After listening to your advice, I called the company again and they agreed to come out for no charge to verify the issue.

Repairman came out, only used the remote to adjust some controls & said it’s a pin cushioning problem and not an IC issue (that was previously replaced). He knows this because the colors move and can be adjusted. If it were an IC issue the colors wouldn’t move. I was shown in service mode that Red, Green & blue move.

I need a new deflection board at a cost of $110 plus taxes & labor will come to $400. While I'm at it I should consider getting both convergence amps replaced as well (add another $100).

What are your thoughts now? What would you do?

Thanks again for your help!

Eric

I do not think that I would spend another $500 on this TV. If you can make the TV watchable by doing a manual convergence, that's what I'd do. If the TV is not watchable, you may be able to sell it for parts, or give it away.

Do you think this is a DIY job?

The TV is in excellent condition and so was the picture before this incident, so I'd hate to trash it.

It's only DIY if you're really handy. If the deflection board is $100 and you can replace it yourself, perhaps that's the way to go... You can always do the IC repair in the future, as necessary if you're into DIY.

I have a Hitachi 57SWX20B which is exhibiting convergence issues (green). I am considering taking out the convergence board to check for broken solder joints, cracks, etc and then replacing the IC’s and resistors. Regarding dangerous voltage sources, which specific areas should I avoid? Are there any measures that I can take to “discharge” these high-voltage sources? I have the service manual.

Thank you.

Unplug the TV overnight before working on the TV. Any high voltage should be gone by then.

I have a Hitachi 57SWX20B and am planning on replacing the IC’s and resistors. Can anyone verify if the STK-394-160E kit will work with cabinet DP27?

Thanks.

I finally came across this excellent thread, and am about ready to take action but was hoping I could get a confirmation on my problem here>

Have read several posts about Hitachi convergence and figure I'll need to replace a convergence unit(s) and/or resistors, but was hoping someone can tell how to really troubleshoot this based on the pics and scenario.


for starters, the Magic Focus will give me a code 4...per the service manual, it seems to point to "Conv. amp gain check *1', which basically means resistors probably went bad, yes? (for those without service manual, it indicates to check these resistors: RK 15, 16, 20, 21, 25, 26, 30, 31, 35, 36, 41 ,42)

in adjusting in Static Mode, per the pic, you'll see that the blue and red line on the right bends upward on the cross pattern (per SM, green is stationary and can't be adjusted I assume...either way, green appears straight here)

in tv screen shot, however (see pic), it appears its the green that is concaving at the top and bottom, towards the center


Therefore, which color(s) are really the problem, and which resistors are really needed to be replaced (note that I haven't opened up the back yet as I wanted to get a first response here).

Btw, this set is 14 years old and lost convergence all of a sudden. Its amazing how cheaply people are selling their RPTVs on craigslist so I may just go that route too. I'm also having to resolder my power board on my Pioneer Elite 610 so I'll be purchasing equipment to do that anyway.

Thx!
Chet

PS. Based on some research on this thread, it appears I should just be buying a kit and replacing all involved??

it appears I should just be buying a kit and replacing all involved??Yep, as per post 1 of this thread.

So, it appears I will need 3 of the STK4274s. While searching the web, I've seen these made by Sanyo, for about $10 each, and then came across ones from Hitachi (a replacement actually), for $33 each. I"ve also seen cheaper ones for $5. Can I just get the Sanyo ones?

Also, it appears this older ones aren't part of a kit really, so I need to find a place to purchase resistors separately. If I can't find them by number, I assume I can buy similar based on ohms and wattage? I'll try to do more digging, but I've read about so many vendors already, its crazy. ;o)

Thx!

I'm pretty sure Sanyo makes them for Hitachi, so if the model's the same, they should be fine As for the "cheaper" ones - avoid them. Good luck finding the resistors - I can't help you there.

I have a pin cushioning problem on a Toshiba 57HDX82 and need a new deflection board. What's the best way to find out how to do this?

Thanks,
Eric

That sounds like it may be a different issue if you know about the board. You'll need to contact Toshiba or an authorized repair depot. If I recall, you purchase the entire board and get a bit of a rebate when you return your board to them. I believe the price was around $300, but don't quote me on that.

Can you post a picture on a picture sharing site like Flickr and paste the URL here?

Okay, just once last 'confirmation' post before I order parts and dive-in to repair my 14 year old Hitachi 46UX20BA.

Related to my earlier posts, I've placed 4 pics on my website to illustrate, and for follow-up, here: http://groups.msn.com/ThePizzulloHomePage/tvrepair.msnw?Page=1

Now that I've opened it up, it appears I have 2 blown resistors (RK30 & RK31) for the Green, which the pic shows, right?

Based on the convergence 'concave' pic, it makes sense that Green is the problem, although I can't understand why the red and blue curve up in the other pic. Anyway............

> should I replace just the Green IC (STK4274) and the 2 resistors?
> or, is it better to replace all 3 ICs and the 2 resistors?
> since those resistors(0113696) are no longer made, I assume I can use just order about any 1/2W 6.8 rated resistor?

Thanks for info and the thread '57' !

Chet