I don't believe there is a "tilt" adjustment in the service menu, so the only way I know of to straighten the lines is to converge them all to a template (overlay) or strings taped to the screen.

You first converge the green to the lines, then converge the red and blue to the green. You start in course mode, go to medium mode and finish in fine mode, then you'll have no tilt and no curves.

I suppose another option is to rotate the three CRTs slightly mechanically.

Hi!

I just wanted to post a quick thanks to everyone for contributing to this forum. I have a 6 year old Hitachi 53UDX10B and it started giving the same convergence problem everyone else is seeing (the red was way off and couldn't be fixed with magic focus). I tried to replace them with STK394-250 ICs, and that didn't work, but when I used STK392-150 everything was perfect. I didn't even have to replace any resistors and the convergence was sharp again.

Thanks to you all for giving so much information that made the repair quick and easy!

I've had the convergence issue with the Hitachi 43 model. I went the blue button route but for some odd reason (coincidence?) my remote for this TV no longer works. I've changed batteries and see the lights on the remote work. My satellite remote will operate the TV as well which rules out the IR issue. I am trying to go back and retrace the steps for the 9 crosshair screen and I cannot do anything with the remote when I get to the color grid. Any help is appreciated.

Make sure that the "TV" button on the top of the remote is pressed, so that it's sending signals for the TV and not some other device. It's obviously a remote issue since the Sat remote works. If that was not the issue, leave the batteries out of the remote for a day and also unplug the TV overnight to see if things reset.

The repair kit 10 from B&D is for Chasis DP-14G. My chasis is DP-15. Will this kit be ok for me?

Thanks.

ok so replaced my IC's a couple months ago , didnt replace any resistors. my 46F500 was working great. then yesterday it started to slowly roll the picture horizontally then it would correct itself, then it would change aspect ratio's on its own or at least thats what it looked like it was doing. The picture seems to look ok though other then the problems mentioned. Anyone have any ideas?


thanks for any input!

Sounds like a different, perhaps unrelated, problem. Sorry, can't help you on the cause/cure.

See the following check list - item 16, etc?

http://www.digitalhome.ca/forum/showthread.php?t=19694

hmm interesting, i did just get a used remote for my original xbox , perhaps thats causing some sort of conflict. i'll take the batteries out of it tonight and see. thanks for the idea 57

O.K. I've got the dreaded convergence problem on a Hitachi 53UWX10BA. Had it fixed (?) about 14 months ago and now it's back. Gonna give it a shot at fixin it myself this time and save myself 400 bucks ! I've ordered the parts already from Andrews and downloaded a schematic. My problem is that I'm not the most experianced person in the world when it comes to electronics. Fixin a car I can do but I'm a stranger to circuit boards and such. I know where the two STK 392-110's are but how do I know which resistors are the ones that are associated with them to replace ? I just want to replace them all and be done with it.

I ordered STK392-120 3 of them, one incase i eff one up. Will those work? If not i can cancel the order and get the STK 392-110's or anyothers that will work. i have no blown resistors, and that cooling fan idea sounds great, how would you put that in. the local repair shop gave me some long winded story about how it take FOREVER to do a manual convergance( and had to load something and they had they equipment to do it( some software?), from what i read, it is a matter of paying attention to the detail when doing a manual convergance? ( or DCAM?) i havent seen that option but i saw that you hit a certain button while doing a manual convergance and that will take you to it.

A lil help here please?

1. I don't know why you wouldn't have simply ordered the appropriate kit for your TV from the links in post 1, including the resistors - how did you know that the resistors were not blown - did you check them all with an ohmmeter and one end cut?

When you have the board out, it's a good idea to replace all the parts in case one is put under stress with the new parts - saves a second repair.

I thought that 150s were the correct replacement for 110s, but don't quote me on that - it was discussed earlier in this thread and the kit people would know.

2. Here's the DCAM link:

http://www.digitalhome.ca/forum/showthread.php?t=9539

3 Can't comment on the fan install, but the new ICs are not supposed to be as sensitive to heat, so they may work fine without a fan.

Ohmmeter?


lol yes i did, although one end cut not needed, as long as understand the alternate paths the current may flow from my ohmmeter

also even to pull it out again isnt taht bad, i have done worse

i didnt see the 150 mention though but thanks!!

i have read elsewhere that as long as the stk 392 number is there, pretty much the same part,

Get this,

WE got the tv from the pa in law, free, he couldnt fit it into his new place, The ICs i thought went, upon pulling out the board, it looks like he went a little cheap in the repair and only replaced the one STK!!!! pretty obvious difference in quality between the 150 and the 110 in it, right down to the soldering job,

not to mention after looking at the board even further, ( i have my HRS qualification) i am not pleased at all with hitachi, very poor soldering all the way through the board, under a scope it doesnt look like any cracks( i am afraid to look at the other boards) FLUX everywhere!!!

also those interested in puttin cooling fans in i have found a guy on ebay..not a bad price for what you are getting

do a search for "Cabinet Cooling dual-fan thermostat"


cheers..just waiting on the parts..thanks for the topic 57!!

Thanks 57 for the help with my convergence issue! I replaced my convergence amps and associated resistors and was able to adjust my convergence again! Awsome!

My Hitachi has the single "cross" in the center to adjust the convergence. Once adjusted though, it is still a little off on the outside corners (primarly the right side corners). Is there any adjustment that I can do to correct this issue. I fear I bumped something while inside the TV during the repair.

Any help would be greatly appreciated! And, thanks again for the excellent detailed instructions, parts sources, and advice! I could not have done it without y'all!

Just thought I'd contribute since I read this whole thread when my convergence board went out and it probably saved me some money.

From the images posted I quickly accepted that it was a convergence board problem.

I opened up the back of the TV, found the board, disconnected it, and flipped it upside down. Then I looked at the soldering on the STK ICs and decided that I didn't want to tackle it. I looked up the Hitachi service location nearest me from the Hitachi website and found my service location was about 10 minutes away. Great. In the end, I had it repaired by an authorized repair location and I didn't have to fight with soldering ICs. The repair guy said that not only were the ICs replaced, but the whole board was tested and a capacitor needed replacing along with a couple of resistors. I definitely wouldn't have found the capacitor problem on my own. I don't think he's pulling my chain since it only cost an extra nine dollars.

The TV works great. I didn't even have to run a convergence program or even run magic focus. It cost $199+tax and I have no regrets.

Before going to the Hitachi repair shop I spoke to a different local repair guy and he wanted to visit onsite and fix it onsite. He was charging double what I ended up paying by bringing my board to the Hitachi repair shop.

Thanks for the help

Ok, so I've been following this thread for a while and purchased and installed the kit for my 61UDX10B twice. The Red and the Green convergence work perfectly. The Blue on the other hand no matter what I replace will not focus. The odd thing is that when I try to do the static mode focus it vibrates like it is trying to converge but just cant do it. I have tested and replaced all of the chips and the resistors in the circuit and then just to make sure it was not me I did it a second time. I was curious if there was something else I might replace in there. I was curious if the magnet on the yoke that is used to adjust the convergence might be bad or something in that circuit. Any info or help would be appreciated.

Did you check for cracked solder on the board, or perhaps solder at the IC that "shorts" between the IC connector pins - the latter happens to a lot of people who don't have a lot of soldering experience.

I checked all solders on the board and soldered everything that looked suspect. I actually have tons of soldering experience. I'm just not 100% sure where to turn on this item. It was doing the exact same thing before I replace the kit the last time.

Hey, so I have been doing some reading in this forum and I too have the blinking red power light. I picked the TV up from someone broken figuring there was a way to fix it, and it looks like you guys have figured it out, so thanks a ton for all of the hard work which has led up to this. The guy said he resoldered the IC's / Amps back onto the board and replaced a few resistors, turned it on, it worked for a few seconds then cut out, so I am assuming he did it almost right and missed a few resistors and blew the amps again? I am literally starting at square 0, or 1, as I all ready pulled the board out and have it on the workbench. Where do I go from here? What is the best method to start taking and what should I do to go about it? I have some experience with a soldering iron, and some time on my hands, so what should I do to get this beast working again? Thanks a ton for any help and direction anyone can provide.