hello, a little confused about something. i have a 43uwx10b hitachi. I am having convergence issues. I would like to install stk 150's instead of the oem 110's. i happen to know that the ohm values for the stk 150's on a hitachi 53UDX10B are as fallows. RK42 = 2.2 , RK46 = 1.5 , RK58 = 3.3 , RK52 = 1.8 , RK 50 = 2.2 , RK54 = 1.5. RK62 is 1.8 ohms. RK42 is the red horizontal channel, RK46 is red vertical, RK58 is green horizontal, RK62 is green vertical, RK50 is blue horizontal and RK54 is blue vertical. Would these be the same values for my 43ubwx10b?
I have to replace rk50 and rk54 as these are for the blue channels which i am having issues with. But if i upgrade to the stk 150's i should replace them all, with the correct values. if these are not the correct ohm values, does anyone know the correct values.

Hi, thanks for all the good info on this thread so far!

I recently got a free 43UWX10B from a friend, he said it had a double image and would shut off sometimes. The convergence was off (vertical) by about an inch on the left side of the screen, and after reading up on the convergence amp problems I figured it probably need the amps replaced. I checked the resistors with an ohmmeter and all were ok, so I ordered the amps. I got bored before they arrived, and decided to see if I could get it fixed by adjusting the convergence, so I did the first go at it only adjusting the 13x9 and it got pretty close. I buttoned up the set and brought it from the garage to the house...powered it up...and got the chirping noise and blinking power light! ugh. Some more reading revealed that sometimes the convergence adjustment can affect how much power the convergence board draws, and the power supply won't turn on, with the suggestion to disconnect the red/black cable from the high power supply board to the convergence board, and see if the set powers up. I did this, it worked, and when I connected the cable again and tried it it powered up! So I went thru the 7x5 convergence, then the 13x9 again, and it came out looking real nice.

Hi
Where can one buy a convergence board for the hitachi tv?

Thanks charlie

You may be able to get one from Hitachi. They were doing a "swap" for about $300 if I recall correctly.

First of all, great forum! 57 is a great moderator!

After reading through this thread, I'm 99% sure my ic's went out on my hitachi 53uwx10b. I called B&D and he said some people think the 150's handle the heat better than the 110's, but he doesn't think so. Anyway, the other thing he said was that he's not sure if either of those kits have the exact resistors I need for my particular model. So does anybody know from personal experience if either of those kits has the exact resistors I need? Which did you go with, 110's or 150's? Which does the tv have originally?

What about going through http://www.electronix.com... it looks like they're cheaper, but is their quality good?

Would this be an appropriate kit for soldering:
http://www.electronix.com/catalog/product_info.php/products_id/12869

Is this pic of the 53FDX01B the same as my model:
http://www.digitalhome.ca/forum/showpost.php?p=564268&postcount=220

Thanks!

can anyone help me out with my tv, any repair suggestions? recently the convergence got misaligned or something see pic.

http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g308/alexdbest2000/100_5359-1.jpg

Read post 1 of this thread. You'll need to replace the convergence ICs, the resistors on the circuit and check the board for cracked solder.


Also read the following post, useful for newbies to the forum:

http://www.digitalhome.ca/forum/showthread.php?t=57741

My 43FWX20B Hitachi suddenly started having convergence problems several months ago. I can manually adjust the convergence, but when the TV is turned off, I lose all of the convergence settings. From my readings on this thread I interpreted this as blown STK chips, and sent away for the replacement kit. The kit arrived and I installed the chips. Unfortunately, it made very little difference, and actually made the misalignment a little worse. I’m now assuming that the original chips and that the new chips are in working order.

Given that the TV will manually align, but not save the settings, is it possible that the TV’s RAM is broken? I’m just throwing this out as a possibility, as I don’t know where the alignment information is stored after adjustments.

I’m hoping for a solution from one of the excellent posters on this site. Meanwhile, I can never turn off the TV.

You have to make sure that when you do a convergence it's Saved to ROM (not RAM, which is volatile). There is often a step which performs this at the end of the convergence - like pressing 1 or PiP or something, depending on the TV.

I see that your TV is one of the older ones and perhaps this step is not there... You may wish to see about a service manual for your TV, or simply leave it on and tuned to an input which displays a black screen. There are a number of people who do this when their TV doesn't operate properly when you turn it off.

Thanks for the rapid reply.

The 43FWX20B has Magic Focus and Manual focus. For many years I've made minor convergence adjustments and saved the settings with no problems. Now the TV will no longer save them. Pressing 1 after manual focus was the method that saved the settings before the TV broke, and I don't think there is any alternative method.

I don't know if it can be fixed or replaced, but where is the ROM memory on a Hitachi?

I didn't realize that leaving it on was an option. What are the potential problems of keeping the TV on all the time (to a black screen of course)? Does it use a lot of power or present a fire hazard?

I would not consider it a fire hazard, but it will consume some power. Probably about 100W, or about $70/year if on 24/7.

I read your post helping out with manual convergence. I am looking for some guidance on manual convergence on a panasonic PT-51G45...can you help out?
Thanks

Sorry, don't have instructions for the Panny, only Hitachi. You may need a service manual, or search the web for the instructions.

What a great website. Last fall I rejuvenated my Kenwood stereo receiver by fixing some cracked solder joints that were noted by others and now I just saved my Hitachi 53UDX10B thanks to you guys. Like others my screen went screwy with colours forming a bow at the top and bottom and double imaging. After reading these posts and taking notes I opened up the set, removed the convergence board and using an Ohmmeter found that RK46 resistor was dead. It actually had a burn mark as well. I was only able to source one STK392-110 IC so I traced the wiring diagram in the service manual to determine which one would be at fault. I have done soldering but mostly automotive simple soldering but I figured tackling an IC was worth it to save a huge repair cost. I replaced the resistor and the IC. It's not all that bad if you take your time, use the proper soldering gun and in my case I have a magnifying lamp that really helped. I replaced the board and the TV looked great except for a manual adjustment using DCAM required for the red.

One odd thing. I was going to replace all the resistors but I found that a lot of them were not the values listed in the service manual. After confirming with an Ohmmeter that they did at least read according to their marked values I decided to let sleeping dogs lie. I have no idea why they manufactured the set using some resistor values that were different than what was called for. If you are doing a repair have a look at your resistors to make sure they are in accordance with the service manual.
Thanks to all for your great advice here. Also, if anyone needs info from the 53UDX10B service manual, let me know. It also covers 43FDX10B, 43FDX11B and 61UDX10B.

Nicefruit-
any chance of getting a copy of the convergence jig you made? I've got the same TV 53UWX10B.

Hi all, I have a convergence issue. I have a Panasonic. After reading this thread, I ordered the STK392-150s to replace the stock STK392-110s.

I had a TV guy come over and replace them. I didn't watch him solder, but saw the finished job from the top - looked OK to my amateur eyes. Unfortunately, I still have a convergence problem (sort of a rainbow across the bottom, where as it was blue shadows before)

Of course he said he soldered them in correctly but I can't really say. He said I need to replace the digital convergenc module (small PCB that plugs in) because it may have been damaged.

Does this sound like BS or possibly fact? I know this is highly speculative, but I'd like to hear your educated opinions

Thanks

Did he replace all the resistors on the circuit, as discussed in the first post and check for cracked solder?

The resistors all looked fine (like new), and were not replaced. I didn't see him check the solder so I cannot say for sure but he seemed thorough...

BTW, the part (digital convergence module) he mentioned has part number TNP2AA151, but I cannot find mention of it anywhere....

thanks

Looking at a resistor tells you nothing. You often can't even check them in place properly (one end needs to be cut). I cannot comment on the module, but doing the correct procedure in the first place, properly solves the problem in about 95+% of cases.

Thanks! Let me clarify something - the resistors you refer to are on the convergence board (the small, removable PCB) , not the main board?