: Hitachi & Other Manufacturers Convergence Problems (STK392-110 ICs) Read Post 1
2007-10-17, 10:41 AM
My 57SWX20B developed the convergence problem last Monday. I read thru this thread from first post to the end. I basically understand what the problem is and what needs to be done. I called service because I am busy and I am not keen to soldering IC chips. However from the thread, it seems that this problem being heat related will tend to come back in so many years. Perhaps I will replace my TV by then.
My question is basic: How to test a resister, do you have to snip one end and test for resistance? I guess testing without snipping is no good? If you cut one end, then you need to solder it back on, I suppose.
What precisely is the right way to solder ic? And what tools and materials do you need? I read something like solder wick, a solder paste, etc., heat gun. What method do you guys use?
Thanks in advance.
2007-10-18, 03:26 PM
The tv serviceman came today. He replaced only one of the STK392-110 with a 120. Plugged it in and the picture is back to where it was and now good. Its amazing that he solder it in place right there in the back of the tv with a small solder. I am happy with it. Charged me $356. If this happens again I will try to do it myself. He did not change the other STK nor did he replace any transistor. He did not even remove the circuit board, just took out the old STK and soldered the new one in situ.
He did clean the inside and outside screen and the lenses of the three gun. I may not have to play with the manual convergence.
I am extremely surprised that he replaced only one IC. Doing two takes little extra time and money. That is not the sign of a good technician (I believe). It'd be like replacing a disk brake on a vehicle with lots of km on it. You're just going to be back again for the other one. Or going out and wearing one new running shoe. Let us know if you need another repair in the near future.
2007-10-19, 09:00 AM
57, I agree with you on why not replace both STK. Maybe I should have insisted on him replacing both. I did asked him about it and he said he will replace the other one if the picture is still bad. He turned on the TV and everything looks okay. Does anybody knows what each STK does? Probably has something to do with one amp controlling two colors? I dont know. Maybe he is thinking when the other one goes bad, its another service call and another $356... Grrr....
However next time this happens, I will just buy kit10 with the STK392-150 and solder it myself. If the technician can do it with a simple soldering iron and a roll of solder, I suppose I can do it too. I probably have to take the IC out of the tv, go to a nice clean table and do the soldering there.
Anyhow, I saw him remove the front panel, clean the glass in the back, clean the three lenses of the projection guns, and the back of the tv screen. It was worthwhile seeing him do that because I will do it myself some time in the future. The glass was dusty.
2007-10-22, 06:47 PM
I have a 53SWX12B and the convergence is messed up. I finally got into the manual convergence set up but cant make the crosshairs move from the center of the screen. I tried everything from the repair manual. Can anyone help me.
Please read post 1 of this thread. You may have blown ICs and/or blown resistors and/or cracked solder on the convergence board. Best to replace all the ICs, all the resistors in the kit and check the continuity on the board.
2007-10-26, 03:13 PM
Thanks for all the great info.
Can someone with the schematic please tell me the identifiers and values of the six resistors that I (might) need to replace on a Hitachi 53FDX01B?
Thanks in Advance...
2007-10-27, 09:36 PM
Guys, this thread is great. I won't go on and on. I've read this thread 3-4 times to get everything sorted out. I've located new ICs for the same old problem we all have. However, My problem is locating the correct resistors without buying a kit from the US that includes the amps I already have. I need a 1.5 ohm 1 watt resistor, I have everything else. Anyone know where I can get the last resistor required in the Toronto area? I saw previously that links to retailers are no longer allowed (moderator said so...early 07). How can I locate parts then...can you email me directly? I should have paid the money and ordered a kit but now I'm 99.9% of the way there. Ideas?
2007-10-30, 06:21 PM
Hello This is exactly the problem I have and the TV has been sitting like this for 2 years in the corner and I pulled out the 27" tube for the last 2 years because I didn't wont to buy another $3500 TV after 3 years.
Anyway I would really appreciate it if someone would send me to the right spot for the Hitachi service manual 43uwx10b so I can look for myself what this TV all about.
2007-10-31, 08:42 AM
Reefer. Don't give up. I did my TV yesterday and did the Dcam to tune it all up. Works better than new IMO. I must have screwed up the magic focus procedure in the past goofing around since it was stuck in Dcam mode just like the procedure at the start of this post says would happen if you don't do it properly (no magic focus function means you are still in DCAM mode though I never did figure out what DCAM stood for...dynamic convergence?). Smarter guys than me. I had to do a reset (little blue button procedure found in here somewhere), then follow the DCAM procedure 'to the letter' to get it to work properly (magic focus etc though magic focus doesn't do a nice job). I spent as much time researching the job as doing it. I found the manual free, online by searching the model number (same as yours...we have the baby 43" model 14G chassis). I have a pdf copy and could quote you the resistors if required. I didn't use the stk 392-110s that were in it, but went with 150s though I could buy both in non generic examples. I read here and elsewhere that they were direct replacements...somewhat of an upgrade. They work the same for my set. I paid $15can. each and they were stocked ($6 generic ICs). Search for a bunch of electronics stores on Matheson rd in TO to find them though I have since found a few other places that stock them but for more money..some as high as $25can each. They are around and stocked in lots of places. I read this forum and tried to get the proper resistors but the forum included some discrepancies for my model. There are a few resistors that are different for our chassis...the manual lists both of them. It seems the 'kits' that are sold elsewhere, include all of the resistors required for both chassis numbers, that's why some people cannot figure out which is which, or if they should change resistors for the 150s when going from 110s. It's all about the chassis number, not the ICs used I feel...at least that's what I did. I only changed the two that were burnt and the ICs (Maybe I should have done them all but I didn't:o). The trick was locating the 1 watt 1.5ohm. I couldn't. I replaced it with a 2watt 1.5ohm (which is phyisically bigger, able to handle more power which is OK for this application....and I could locate two $1.69can). A 1 watt 1.5ohm seems to be an oddball that no one has. I searched at least 10 stores and come up short. It's still a metal oxide resistor (says 'flame resistant' on the packaging). Take your time soldering, use some solder wick to get everything apart and make a nice job of it. I used new thermal paste on the ICs....got this stuff at the same stores for $8. If you don't think you are up to it, get someone else to solder it for you...the joints are small and the board cannot take excess heat. You shouldn't learn how to solder on this job. I carefully labelled each connection to match the numbers on the board so I could put it all back together. The job seems to be as easy as everyone says. You will spend more time tuning it via the remote than everything else once you have the parts. If you can figure out how to email me directly from this forum, I could quote you the resistor specs or send you the whole manual. Open your TV up and see which ones you want to replace and post again. Super long post now. The inside of my set was really dirty. I used a little paint brush (dry, clean of course) and the vacuum to gently brush everything and clean it up. Maybe that's why it died in the first place. I couldn't even read the resistor names until it was cleaned up. For everyone else trying to do this job...I hope you can use this info.
RK54 (1.5ohm 1 watt, I used a 2 watt, same for both chassis),
RK58 (2.7 ohm 1 watt DP17 chassis, 3.9 ohm 1 watt DP14G chassis),
Traded the STK392-110s with STK392-150s
While I have the Hitachi 43UWX10B manual open...
RK42 (2.2ohm 1 watt DP17 chassis, 3.3 ohm 1 watt DP14G chassis),
RK46 (1.5ohm 1 watt DP17 chassis, 1.8ohm 1 watt DP14G chassis),
RK50 (2.2ohm 1 watt for the DP17 chassis, 2.7ohm 1 watt for the DP14G chassis),
RK62 (1.8 ohm, 1 watt DP17 chassis, 2.2 ohm 1 watt, DP14G chassis)
I think that's all of them that most people choose to replace.
2007-11-04, 07:28 AM
Recently I was given a Hitachi 43FDX01B. After reading through this wonderful forum I have determined that my tv must be suffering from fried convergence ic's. My question;
Is this kit--
2 pcs STK392-150,
1 each of the following 1Watt axial lead fusible resistors:
1.5, 1.8, 2.2, 2.7, 3.3, 3.9 Ohms.
Repair Kit for Hitachi convergence Chassis DP-14G
--also suitable for my particular purpose. I think it is but after reading through 22 pages of sometimes pretty technical information I am not absolutely sure. If someone could confirm my observations and or steer me in the right direction I would greatly appreciate it.
Thanks in advance.
2007-11-20, 05:01 PM
Hi everyone. This forum is great! Iíve read a lot and found out I have the same convergence issue others have reported. I have a Hitachi Ultra vision model 50UX22B chassis AP53P thatís about ten years old. It has performed flawlessly until now however the repair bill for someone to come out is in the $450 range. And if a technician did come out they will only replace the defective component. I rather have all three ICs and resistors replaced to avoid another future failure. I plan to remove the convergence board and hopefully find a local electronics shops for repair since my soldering abilities are quite rusty. Not sure what they will charge. I downloaded the Hitachi service manual and Iím about ready to remove the board. This board is quite large (about 10in x 14 in) and has a large heat sink that is common to the three STKs. I have taken digital photos and plan to label all wires/connectors to make sure I donít mis-wire something when re-installing. Hereís where I need help. I noticed there are a number of circuit board couplings that connect to an adjacent board. How do I disengage the couplings? The service manual specifies STK4274. Is there an improve version to handle the heat issue? There are number of capacitors and resistors in the circuit of each STK. Should I replace all with the original part numbers referenced in the service manual? Do I have to remove the large heat sink to get the board out? How can I check for cracked solder connections on the board? Do I have to purchase an overlay and do a manual convergence after the board is repaired? Do I need an electrostatic ground strap and bag for the board? Thanks.
2007-11-28, 11:13 PM
I have a Hitachi 43FDX01 rear projection TV that has resently begun blacking out intermitenly for about a second or two at a time. It seems to occur when the picture on screen changes to quick flash of brightness like during an explosion on screen. I'm not sure if this is a problem that has to do with the "convergence" problem, though from what I've read it seems others have had convergence problems on this TV. Anyone have any ideas as to what the problem may be, any help would be wonderful.
I believe this is often a power supply issue, that can often be rectified with a proper setup of the TV (reducing contrast, etc). As the power supply ages, it can't handle the extremes the way it could, especially if you're still set at say 100% contrast. See:
If that's not it, then I have no other suggestions.
2007-12-01, 10:45 AM
my tv is stuck in static mode. i am looking for the location of the blue button
2007-12-01, 07:26 PM
Cost of STK392-110 IC's, solder gun, heat sink grease, and electrical solder - $25. Cost of reputable electronics TV repairman to fix my terrible solder job - $40. Cost of new STK392-110 from different company to replace my screw ups - 20. The feeling of having a TV picture that looks like it is brand new out the box (and saving probably $300 from a repair bill) - Priceless. I want to thank you guys for giving me the confidence and showing me that I could actually do the repair.
my tv is stuck in static mode. i am looking for the location of the blue button
If it's like most Hitachis, remove the front panel and look to the bottom left of the chassis. It's quite small, but you should be able to find it.
2007-12-03, 08:50 AM
Where did you find a guy that will fix your soldering job for $40?
2007-12-06, 12:02 PM
57 and all,
First off,, great thread!! Pulled board and checked the suspect resistors. All checked good, however we changed them along with the STK's. I installed kit 10 for a DP14G chassis from B D Ent (great supplier) and up and running. While doing the removal of on of the STK's,,
more than half of the solder connections that looked good were actually cold joints once touched!! My advice is to take your time and inspect the board..
Took me and my son about 4 hours and that included a complete cleaning..
THANK YOU all for the good info, Ray
2007-12-09, 10:11 PM
Thanks for the help with my convergence issue! I replaced my convergence amps and associated resistors and was able to adjust my convergence again! Awsome!
My Hitachi has the single "cross" in the center to adjust the convergence. Once adjusted though, it is still a little off on the outside corners (primarly the right side corners). Is there any adjustment that I can do to correct this issue. I fear I bumped something while inside the TV during the repair.
Any help would be greatly appreciated! And, thanks again for the excellent detailed instructions, parts sources, and advice! I could not have done it without y'all!