: Hitachi & Other Manufacturers Convergence Problems (STK392-110 ICs) Read Post 1
2007-08-17, 11:18 AM
So I took the board out again and checked all the solder joints and resoldered some of the joints just for safety. I popped the board back in and redid the DCAM convergence. The picture is awesome. Thanks for all your help 57, I really appreciate the fast replies and your godly knowledge. The only thing left is for me to use an overlay to straighten all the lines out.
2007-08-20, 11:04 AM
57, you had told me to use strings to realign the convergence, how would i go by doing this?
Tape a string (tightly, so it doesn't droop) to the TV where the lines should appear according to the overlay or service manual, instead of using an overlay. This will allow you to make nice straight lines. Do the green first, then align the red and blue to the green.
2007-08-27, 04:11 PM
Thanks so much for all the good info. Oh and thanks 57 for redirecting me to this forum. ok so I ordered KIT10 from B&D. I am a newbie to TV repair or any other electronics for that matter, but a decent DIYer. My question is what type of tools should I tackle this job with. Specifically the type and size solder, soldering iron (? watts), I have also seen desoldering units is it necessary. And a basic run through to remove and replace the resistors and STK392-150's. Thanks:p
Did you read the links in post 1 - specifically posts 220, 224? Some of those questions are answered there. If you're not comfortable soldering, desoldering, why not take the parts and the board (taken out of the TV) to someone who has a lot of experience and the appropriate equipment and pay them $50-100 to do?
2007-08-27, 04:47 PM
Thanks again. I think I can manage it even though I have never done it. I dont really know anyone with any experience in this type of work and I called the repair shop who estimated between $300-$400 plus a service charge of $59.95 so I will take my chances. I was really just wondering if there is a specific wattage soldering iron or size and type of solder to get the job done.
2007-08-27, 05:06 PM
I finally got my parts in the mail. Once I pulled the board all resistors checked out ok so I didn't change any. Replaced the 110's with 150's. Fired the tv back up and it looked good, did the manual convergence (blue was out by quite a bit) and now the TV looks as good or better than new.
Thanks for all the help, this thread rocks!
2007-08-27, 05:12 PM
To answer your question CCTexan:
I used silver solder. Had a whole roll lying around (I build speakers as a hobby) .
I ordered a variable wattage (5-50) soldering station for roughly $26 bucks Canadian when I ordered the other parts.. Set it on high for the heavy desoldering work on the heatsink tabs and ~50% for the delicate work on the pins.
2007-08-27, 07:12 PM
2007-08-27, 09:23 PM
Ok so I removed the board and located STK392-110 and the resistors. My question is post 220 identifies the resistors as follows RK42 2.2 oh, RK46 1.5 oh, RK62 3.3 oh, Rk58 3.3 oh, Rk54 1.5 oh, Rk50 2.2 oh. The kit I ordered from B&D ent. contains 2 STK392-150 (which I read was an upgrade) and resistors 1.5, 1.8, 2.2, 2.7, 3.3, and 3.9. My question is where to these 3 resistors that dont match up go? The 1.8, 2.7, and 3.9?:confused:
While waiting here, you may wish to e-mail that question to the place that sells the kits.
2007-08-28, 06:54 PM
I did last night but they still have not replied.
2007-08-28, 07:11 PM
Well I got them on the phone and they told me they did not know the values but that the resistors in the kit were the ones generally used with the repairs. They told me to keep digging on the internet.:confused:
Repair manual link in your other thread...
2007-08-29, 01:00 AM
After reading these posts I was able to take all the necessary steps of fixing my Hitachi TV. Thank you.
I have one small problem that still remains after doing the manual convergence in DCAM mode.
I really didn't understand the instructions...but my picture looks great EXCEPT I have a single green dot in the upper right hand corner that does not go away.....Is this related to the manual convergence....
I didn't really adjust anything in DCAM mode....just finished all steps and my Magic Focus does work right now.
Any suggestions would be great....and thank you for help.
PS....I spend $36.00 to repair this problem...ordered KIT10 from B&D enterprises and replaced the AMPS only....no resistors were changed out.
Quote from the local TV repair shop was $290.00.
2007-08-30, 12:31 AM
Thanks so much for everyones help. RK54, Rk50, and RK58 were burned out and showed no value with the multimeter so I had no choice but to change them out. After testing the remaining three and finding values similar to those provided by the repair kit supplier (B&D enterprises) I went ahead and changed them out as follows: RK54 1.5 ohms, RK50 2.7 ohms, and RK58 3.9 Ohms. The desoldering was not too bad with the aid of some desoldering braid, and once I got the hang of using that it went fairly quick. After soldering the fist chip it was all gravy. It took me about and hour to manually adjust the convergence, (probably since it was my first time ever to try it) but it was well worth it. The picture is better than I can remember.:)
Good for you. Thanks for the feedback.
2007-08-31, 10:59 AM
My post above had links to where I bought my parts, they have been edited out. Is posting links a no-no?
I thought it would be of help to people trying to source out the parts, especially here in Canada. Also, the plug for my speaker building parts place might get a few of you technically inclined people interested in building speakers as a hobby, nothing beats homemade speakers for performance/$ IMHO. I have a pair of towers in my livingroom that are absolutely amazing and my subwoofer rattles the house when watching a good movie:cool:
Retail links in the discussion forums are no longer allowed (early 2007):
2007-09-01, 01:55 AM
Thank you all for your help. I was able after several tries to repair my Hitachi 43FWX20B. I made two critical mistakes along the way which is why I had to buy some resistors and add'l STKs.
1. I didn't practice my soldering. I never had much experience and decided to wing it, which was my first mistake. I burnt a couple of connections (pads) and had to create some bridges. I must of also joined some connections on the STKs since one of my resisters took a hit and the STKs had to be replaced.
2. I always say "Tools make the job". A good portion of my mistakes were because I couldn't see very well so I tried to work with juggling a magnifying glass, my soldering gun, and my solder. Bad idea. On my second attempt I first got some good tips on how to solder and I purchased some magnification glasses headset with lights from electronix for about $7. This made all of the difference in the world for me. The second set of STKs went in like a pro. I feel very confident now of course.
Well the rest is history. I put it all back together and fired it up with nothing else to do. The picture was perfect. Thanks again your support!