just to let everyone know.....
i see alot of talk on here of ppl with IC problems (stk392-110), & usually someone says go with stk392-150, & in some cases(don't know if they're any better) they're told to go with the stk392-180.
well ive been posting on here about my convergence problem in my hitachi 46f500, which lasted only 2.5 years, & my IC chips are stk392-150. evidently it seems that my problem arose just as soon(or sooner than som ppl with the 110s. soooo....does this mean that the 180s should be the only choice? i also wonder if the quality & amount of the heatsink paste used will make a dramatic difference. im guessing these chips could also use a bigger heatsink and/or even a mini fan. who know maybe theres something else in the in the tvs circuitry thats causing these Ic chips to go prematurely. all i know this might be the last hitachi i own, my other hitachi crt (tube style) has lasted me 10 yrs & my parents have a rear projection that has lasted around 15 yrs. i seem to think the hitachi i once trusted may no longer be the same company we once knew in one way or another & this is sad :-(

This is not a Hitachi issue. All CRT-based RPTVs - Panasonic, Sony, Philips, Mits, etc have this issue with the ICs. They are/were made by Sanyo I believe and were issued to all CRT-RPTV manufacturers.

I cannot speak to your question re 180 vs 150. I've read differing opinions on the matter.

It is possible that the HDTV ICs are under more 'stress' than the SDTV ones, but SDTVs also have the issue. I also moderate on a US forum where there are 10X the number of problems...

thanks for the reply ,
ok, is it safe to say that maybe i should look into diiferent technology for my next tv(plasma,lcd) or do these seem to have many problems of there own also? i didnt include DLP in my choices as ive already read about too many early bulb failures(& the moving wheel sounds scary), in fact i work with some1 that just recently had a bulb failure within couple months of getting his brand new 52" samsung. if i don't succeed in repairing my 46f500 then i may start shopping around....any recommended tvs?

hey guys,
after much searching on the web i finally did find a step by step procedure on how to replace your stk392-110 IC chips(as i hadnt found one on here) & i thought id share it............


http://cmpalmer.blogspot.com/2006/11/fixing-my-own-tv-part-ii.html

hope this helps some of u:cool:

I have made a post on here Saterday and I don't see it yet is it in que or something? the post had a lot of good info in it

I see post 220, early Sunday Morning? I don't recall seeing that earlier - don't know where it was.

Turok27 hitachi is still the better choice in the matter and yes the HDtv's do put more stress on the chips as they have better resolution...

as for my post I see it popped up now I guess it was just in que ^.^

I had a toshiba 63" DLP for like 4days then gave it back the TV had a hard time with motion (there was a lot of ghosting trails) also it had problems with colour balance between channels and programs as well as darkness it had light and dark spots at random I then got a 63" hitachi LCD projection TV and let me tell ya I LOVE it. It even has a fan in the back to keep it cool (it failed ON once meaning it stayed on 24/7 even when the tv was off warranty toke care of that)

just this week I want out to wals mart because my mother wanted a new TV in her bedroom to replace her 16" crt I got a 26" deanyx LCD with a dvd player built in in the store it looked alright to good but when I got it home and hocked it up to cable TV the picture was grainy pixelated and fuzzy no matter what I did it looked the same (mind you I got the 53fdx01b and the 63" LCD projector TV I didn't look at the model number yet but they both look amazing compared to the one I got) I tried a new dvd and it looked only ok mind you this TV wal mart just got in stock in the last 5days, the other one they had on display (a 20" symphonic LCDTV) but they said it was last years model and that it was discontinued and they couldn't sell the display ones, they where cheaper and looked at least 200% better then any of the new stock and the menu was at least 300% more advanced with more options then the new ones. go figure I chose to get a new TV all the good ones are gone and all thats left is new crap like what the hell man and they call the new ones HDTV's my 53fdx01b is now 7 YEARS old is HD and looks batter then the new crap ????? O.o o.O

I think I will fix what ever I can for as long as I can (I said this before 400$ for a new board that will last what lets say 3years or I can fix it for 40$ ten times and have it last in theory 30years fixing it ever 3 years ten times. hay well it makes perfect sense to me o.O)

Thank you killmeman for your informative post (#220), complete with pictures.
A friend of mine wanted to find out the ohm value for his RK59 resistor (Hitachi 51F500) that had just burnt out a week or so ago. There it was in your post!

just out of curiosity, is it possible that the IC chips are ok & just a bad resistor/resistors is causing a problem? i i read somewhere(post #47) that someone was having problems with the red & they just happen to see that RK-46 looked burnt . well im having problems with my red(i can adjust it left to right but not up & down in the manual convergence adjustment) & i just noticed that my RK-46 is a little brownish in the center. almost thought about checking it out further & replacing it just to see if my TV will be back to normal. does this sound way to easy to be true & more than likely one of my ICs is still bad? i'm still waiting for my ICs i ordered through ebay so i have nothing better to do than sit here & stare at my circuit board & ask these questions on this forum;)

i also read this elswhere on the net.........


Chris said...
@Last Anonymous

If you changed the ICs and it didn't fix your problem, check the discussion on changing the resistors/fuses - if those are blown, the amps cannot function (as I understand it)

10:45 AM, April 02, 2007
Anonymous said...
Chris:

Thank you again. My TV is working now. The problem is that I had one tiny copper wire from desodering copper net shorted two pins. By the way, one IC controls the BV,BH and GV, the other IC controls GH, RV and RH. you can find this on the PC board. If you know the sympton, you probably only need to change one IC.

ok so then i read somewhere else that IK04 is the chip that handles GH,RV,RH.
so now i look at IK04 & notice that RK46 is right next to it, so im just guessing that (maybe) just RK46 is causing my symptom with the red or maybe both (IK04 & RK46) are bad. but anyway maybe IK05 is still ok.

like i said im just trying to piece this puzzle together since im still waiting on my chips & still have some time b4 ill tear into it:)

well why wonder about it change just the resisters and see what happends you should be able to get the resisters just about anywhere that sells them near you like you said you are waiting for the chips so why not do it besides if it doesn't fix it you got the other chips on the way right. dont be afraid to try it if you burn the TV down just blame me so that I can blame you ^.^ he he JK

The ICs are so inexpensive, that once you've got the board out and are working on it, you might as well replace both ICs and all the associated resistors, as well as checking the solder on the board.

I don't believe anyone recommends changing only one IC.

ok i checked the resistors associated with the ICs & they all passed a continuity test except RK46(the one with a little brown spot in center). so i pulled it off the board & yep its dead. i also i did a little continuity testing on the ICs just to see if they check out identical, which they should i believe, & the only spot they dont match up is pin #8 from right to left. when i stick a jumper wire in the spot where RK46 was at then i get identical continuity readings. im kinda thinking about just replacing the bad resistor & check to see if everything is ok, i guess it wouldnt hurt. if it still gives me problems then ill replace the IK04 or both(IK04&IK05). have u ever heard of just a resistor causing my symptom of no red vertical control ?

i found this little post......



Hitachi 53UWX10BA Repair Process

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Thanks to all for this thread and the information that allowed me to repair my HDTV for less than $40. I have summarized my repair procedure to consolidate the repair information for the next UWX10B(A) owner who needs help.

TV Specs:
- 53UWX10BA rear projection Hitachi HDTV
- DP14G chassis

Symptoms:
- red out of vertical convergence (wavy pattern in upper left and lower right of screen)
- Magic Focus initially returns no error but convergence is not corrected, later returns error "3" or "4"
- manual DCAM would not correct convergence

Troubleshooting:
- IK04 controls red in horizontal and vertical, green in horizontal
- IK05 controls green in vertical, blue in horizontal and vertical
- RK46 and RK42 associated with red convergence and IK04
- RK62 associated with green convergence and IK04
- RK58 associated with green convergence and IK05
- RK54 and RK50 associated with blue convergence and IK05

Parts/Tools:
- purchased Kit10 from www.bdent.com/kits/repair_kits.jsp which contained two STK392-150 ic's, 1.5, 1.8, 2.2, 2.7, 3.3, and 3.9 OHM resistors for $29.50. Per other forums, the 180's will work but Hitachi officially calls for the 150's to replace the 110's.
- RadioShack desolder braid, silver solder, 15W soldering iron, heatsink grease
- Craftsman multi-meter

Repair:
- checked all resistors and all were still good (see resistance values below)
- decided to replace all of the components that came with the B&D kit
- replaced IK04 (STK392-150), IK05 (STK392-150), RK46 (1.8 OHM), RK42 (3.3 OHM), RK62 (2.2 OHM), RK58 (3.9 OHM), RK54 (1.5 OHM), and RK50 (2.7 OHM)



heres a little help with the resistor values............



http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Electronic_color_code

i might just go ahead & replace the IK04 anyway since RK46 is part of its circuit & something did cause it to cook......:eek: . my mind would be more at ease i think

does anyone know the value for RK46 in a hitachi 46f500. the one i pulled out has a red band then i cant tell what the next 2 bands are because of the burnt spot & the last band is gold...

Thank you all for your post. I picked up an 53udx10b and after reading your posts ordered the convergence kit from B&D and the set now has a perfect picture. Again thank you.

if any one would like I can do the repair for them for $100cnd (only people in the area and please bring only the board)

This list was also a great help to me, my issues were precisely the same as those listed above, I bought the kit from BD, took the convergence board to a local shop who soldered the parts in the board for me ($50USD).

Took me a while to converge the puppy -- using the little button on the convergence amp -- but it all came out pretty darn good, thanks fo this board, my fix was under $100.

I do have one lingering issue, however: as I say, the convergence operation went well. There is a slight lingering issue that shows up when I have a picture on, however, it's a bit difficult to describe, but there is red line that shows as something of an arc that is in the extreme upper RH side of the picture. It seems to flicker a bit, and I can seem to adjust it out.

Again, the convergence went very well for the rest of the screen. I used the 13 X 9 grid and all went very well. The remaining problem -- the little arc -- doesn't seem to show in the 13 X 9 grid. Any ideas how to eliminate the arc much appreciated.

Another question: I can enter an interesting screen by pressing the 'magic' focus twice: the screen displays either nine or twelve little crosses. On what use is this particular screen. Lastly the set to which I'm referring is a 53UWX10B Hitachi.

Thanks for any ideas.

The nine crosses are called static mode and are for a "quick convergence". The 117 point convergence is much better.

The little arc may be due to a small imperfection in the convergence in the line below - so simply raise that red line (and the others perhaps a bit) and you may get rid of the little red arc you're seeing.

I have a 51UWX20B Hitachi with some similar convergence issues.I've read all the threads on this problem I can find , but I haven't seen any thing on this particular model. Are all the Hitachi models in this age range (2003) using the same IC's and resistors shown , or do I need to get the manual for this model to get the exact #'s to repair? I had a green halo on the right side of objects and people on the screen for about 2 weeks, went to magicfocus , the green focus went blurry green, then a code 5 came on the screen. nothing fixed. Now I seem to have lost the green coloring altogether. I took the back cover off to get any #'s off the board , and I noticed the green bulb was not as bright as the others .When I took the front speaker cover off, I seen 6 knobs there so I just had to try something. The 3 knobs on top were color adjustment knobs. I turned the middle knob and I got the green to come back (although a pale sort of green)so I put it back the way it was. Am I still looking at replacing The IC's and all resistors or does it sound like something else? All help would be greatly appreciated!