Although I am just entering the wonderful world of OTA, I have already found cases of connectors rusting. Admittedly, I am repairing a so-called professional installation, which a five year old could do better, it goes to show that you NEED to weather seal them, just to be on the safe side. In my case, the conductor on the Male F- Connector already starting rusting after less than 6 months, here in Toronto.

I am trying to find the aforementioned rubber grommets. Electrical tape is fine if you are done, but I am constantly tinkering with the setup as I learn, so the grommets present an idea solution for me. I have a small handful which I pillaged from old connectors, but I would like to get more. I tried reputable TV sources (and a few disreputable ones too), no go. I went to Home Depot, and couldn't find any. If anybody has a proper name/manufacturer, or better yet a source, I would highly appreciate it.

I'm suprised they didn't have them at Home Depot; they are in the electrical aisle with all the outlets, phone and TV related connectors. They also sell them at Lowes.

Thanks Kanebra. Even if I did find them, 5 at a go would be a pain. Although I am the one doing the work, I am looking to connect up to 6+ TVs with runs up to 200 feet, all done outdoors because of landlord issues, so the number of connections that need sealing is non trivial.

I found a major online source <PM me if you want to know where> that sells them. They refer to them as "F-Sealing Rings", and they sell them in bags of 100. That way, if I get frustrated with my OTA efforts, I can happily fling them from the roof at the trees blocking my OTA and still have plenty more leftover.

<rejoining back from split post on amps>

On my CM 4-DA, I've got two ports not wired, the power port (I use an inserter as I can't get a line for power) and one of the amp ports. I stuck a 75-Ohm terminator on the unused port, and the plastic cap that all the ports were shipped with on the power port. Is this enough? I'm considering either boots or more simply some electrical tape. I haven't gone down the outdoor box road as of yet as I am constantly changing my setup on a weekly basis.

It's recommended that all unused ports are terminated with a proper terminator. A plastic cap is not considered a terminator.

That's why there's a proper terminator on the unused signal port.

I placed a plastic cover on the power port, because I am trying to not cause a short circuit on the power port (not sure if they protected against reverse currents, not taking any chances unless a CM engineer advises otherwise; manual doesn't have a schematic). If it has a signal it has a proper terminator; if it doesn't have a signal (there's only one port that fits that description), I put a plastic cover.

Yes, it would be helpful to have a schematic for this amp. Unfortunately I haven't seen one posted anywhere. And opening this amp doesn't seem to be the easiest task in the world.

I'm not sure how those plastic caps would stand up to weather (UV, heat, etc). I believe a terminator would still provide the best weather and potential RF ingress protection. Worst case (without knowing the amp's configuration) of the terminator is that it would ground out any DC present on the power port.

Perhaps I'll bench test mine tomorrow to see if I get DC in the unused power port when I inject power into the RF out port.

Thanks Jasse88. You are absolutely right about the plastic and UV, didn't think of that.

I also thought, I got tonnes of RG6 connectors. I could snip the wire inside of an old connector so it doesn't go inside the spiggot when I screw it on, and use a few rounds of electrical tape. The same would work with snipping the lead off a terminator, but I don't have as many of those.

Hi,

I was thinking of using the small plastic butter tub container.

Then drill two holes for the input and output F-connectors.

Put KT-200 inside, put in some filler so it doesnt rock/move in the tub.

Close the lid (it snaps air tight), maybe tape the lid.

Screw in the two F-connectors to RG-6.

Then seal the fittings using regular kitchen/bath clear sealent...

Is that good?;)

The usual problem with plastic is breakdown from ultraviolet exposure. That tub will get brittle and crack if it's outside.

It's a temporary solution. I would expect it to last into next spring (though we do have cold winters here, maybe down to -5 C, though rare). Then I can see if it cracked during the freeze or not... until I find a better solution.

It's funny. The KT-200 just has those two connector that could cause water to go in. The rest of the casing seems solid and airtight (no other openings)... it's almost like I dont need the tub enclosure, just seal the two fittings with sealant only.. hmmm...

What you want is a 4" x 4" x 2" PVC weatherproof junction box model E989NNJ-CAR from Home Depot (or similar) - about $9. Drill two holes in the bottom for the coax, and use grommets or boots or coax putty to seal. UV and water-proof (supposedly!).

To further the above post, a weatherproof box, properly assembled, is a VERY good seal. Setting aside UV degradation on ye ol' mangled margarine tub, if you get water inside there, it will be WORSE than no box, because it will trap and accumulate moisture. This is a macroscopic version of what is known as crevice corrosion, and this is what kills your car.

I was toying with the idea of making a rain shield, by taking a cutout bottom of a Tropicana container to shield my CM-7777 until I abandoned it. Partly for the UV, but partly because it just made it too fiddly to work with.

I have had the KT-200 on the roof for over a year now without an enclosure (in Toronto). I put some caulking around the edge (where the case joins) and on the screws, taped the connections with good tape and so far so good.

Yeah, that's what I figured would be reasonable. That KT-200 box is metal encased and simply putting water sealant on the screws and joints and coax connections would seem "good enough to me."

Good info to keep in mind.