I picked some up at Reno Depot a couple years back, it wasn't the 3M brand, but it is the same stuff, pretty cheap if I recall like $2 or $3 for the roll. I also use it to plug holes where the cable enters from the wall. I'll go visit a Reno to see if they still have it and what it is called.

I am going to be putting my 4221 up using an eave mount, meaning it will be screwed in using lag screws onto the side of the eave. I am not as concerned as I would be if I was putting a tripod up and penetrating the roof. But what measures do you think I need to take to waterproof the installation? i was just going to coat the lag screws with silicone before I screwed them in and then cover the screw head with silicone after it is screwed in. Think this will be ok??

WeeB, I plan on doing a similar mount for my 4228. Would like to hear feedback on using silicone on the eave mount also. I really don't want to plaster roofing tar on my pretty eave, heh. I think that I will also put a bead of silicone along the top of the brackets too to keep water getting down to the hole. Will leave the bottome open though to let some sneaky water out if it does find its way in. Should this be enough?

Larry

For eave mounts like you folks are talking about you can use paintable waterproofing and it should be fine. Some formulations let you scrape them flat for sanding and painting, then you can touch it up with house paint to make it almost invisible.

Some other types of caulking can work too. I once had to pop a hole in an outer wall through white aluminum siding to shorten a coax run so I just used what I had handy in my workshop at the time after mrs. stampeder had recaulked one of our bathtubs: white kitchen and bath caulking. It has been excellent for years, to my surprise, but I would never use it where direct rainfall goes. We also have milder winters here compared to anywhere else in Canada so its really not meant for the outdoors. Still, it is something I keep in mind when white outer walls are being drilled through. ;) White silicone would have been fine.

For a wall or eave I would not put silicone or waterproofing on the lag bolts threads. You don't want the lag bolts being set into holes that are wet in any way or they'll never be as tight as in a dry hole and the silicone might never dry properly inside there. Drill pilot holes for the lag bolts and either leave them dry or squirt in a bit of something like PL200 Bulldog Grip glue just before putting in the bolts, then when they're set nice and deep and you're finished the mounting part do the caulking of the bolt heads described above. ;)

The hot-dipped-galvanized EMT pipe shouldn't rust either.

The cut ends of galvanized EMT are potential weak points for rust.

I'll take some pictures soon.

You can touch those up with the paste/paint that welders and chain link fence contractors use for galvanized and then you're fine. :)

The cut ends of galvanized EMT are potential weak points for rust.

I'll take some pictures soon.
True....but I think most folk (including myself) are using the full 10ft length.

When I cut a short length for the antenna mounting section (above the rotor),I used a stainless steel faucet hole blanking cover which fit perfectly and was siliconed in place.

Hi Guys,


Is Paintable Caulking DAP Alex?


What is dry bolt threads?


Thanks,


Intravino

I put up my 5ft tripod on my roof last weekend. Just last night I went into the attic to ensure that my lag bolts were in the trusses properly. On one tripod leg I missed the truss entirely by about 1/2 a centimeter and all three lag bolts are just to the left of the truss:mad:

If I remove the lag bolts and put them into the truss properly there will obviously be 3 holes remaining.

In your expert opinion will the Armour Coat Roof Tar and Patch that I got from CT seal up those 3 holes? Would it be better to leave it as it is? A third possible option?

I do plan on going up there twice a year to inspect and apply more sealant as necessary I just really want to make sure I don't have any leaks:)

Can you add a little bracket / extender for the one leg and there by only have one small hole to fill / seal up?
half a centimeter heck you may be able to remove the bolt / screw and just put a sharp angle on it and hit the spot your looking for

Why don't you pull the screws back and sister a piece of wood to the truss where the holes are then drive the screws back in to the new piece of wood sistered to the truss.

Here's what I'd do (& I build houses for a living):

1- Back out your bolts(probably no more than 2 at a time)

2-Cut blocks to fit between your trusses, lay them flat against the roof sheeting in the appropriate area & nail ( or screw) through side of the truss into the end grain of the block.

3- Double that block up if you stick to lags, a single block works fine with through bolts/washers & is probably more bulletproof than the lags.

Done this way you can pretty much guarantee you'll never see a failure at that mounting point. It' actually superior to mounting on the truss w/ lags.

Dave

EdT mentioned electrician's putty, but I was recently replacing the kitchen sink and faucet so a friend suggested plumber's putty for certain of the parts that are best off with a bit of extra gasketing. It is about $5 for a little plastic tub of it at Rona or Home Depot and the stuff is excellent to work with for waterproofing of non-pressure joints, seals, and flanges. It molds well to odd shapes and can be left for years.

I have not used it so far for any OTA gear purposes, but I'll be testing that out soon. The only issue that might be problematic about plumber's putty is that it stays tacky for quite awhile, so in the outdoors it would probably develop a rind of dust and crud. Anyways there are so many great products listed in this thread that plumber's putty is just another option.

If you've ever used RV putty for waterproofing roof hatches (comes in a tape-backed ring), plumber's putty is much the same.

This is the first I've read this thread about waterproofing of cable ends. I have found that with connection boot's, electrical tape and tars sealants that encapsulate and seal end terminations, they become prone to one forgotten seasonal factor. Condensation! If you seal the connection too much, then the condensation can still form internally and it can not evaporate.

I have always used plumbers grease inside the cable ends and around the outer seams of the connections, and also a bit on the male terminal threads. The plumbers grease repells water and also repells surface condensation and if any water should penetrate inside, it can then evaporate freely. Trapped condensation is a freezing issue and a corrosion issue.

Plumbers grease is non-conductive, yet it does not appear to hamper electrical connectivity.

When I take a job down even after years of service, the connection terminals and the copper wire core connections are still in corrosion free mint condition.
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Someone mentioned using vasoline ? Vasoline is a petroleum based product that is a solvent that could leach into the cable's insulating cover and can degrade plastics over a long period time.

Condensation is definitely a biggy out here on Canada's Wet Coast, so drip loops and condensation holes (pointed straight downwards) are a must. :)

I smear some die electric grease on the connector thread and space gap to prevent any condensation from forming, this is especially important with copper clad RG6 cables which can corrode when exposed to water or humidity.

Okay, so I'm tired of wrapping a bag around my CM7777 (miraculously the insides survived a good drenching).

What do I need to put on the coax connectors/top lid cracks to make sure water doesn't seep in the next time?

What do I need to put on the coax connectors/top lid cracks to make sure water doesn't seep in the next time?
Electrical tape. Preferably 3M or similar quality.

If one hunts around hard enough, there are even 1" and 1.5" widths available for easier application.

Probably splitting hairs here but what do you guys prefer for OTA applications, 3M Scotch Super 33+ or Super 88? Both are available at the Home Depot for about the same price. Sales info suggests 33+ to be more popular. But which is better/easier to work with for OTA?


Thanks!