I picked up some 6 gauge bare copper ground wire today for 32 cents a foot from United Electric Supply. It seems it went up 6 cents in one day, heh. Still about 1/3 the price Lowes charges for it.

The AL ground wire is still used often by power companies to run down the power pole from the neutral and bond at ground level to the copper wire going to the ground plate on bottom of the pole or to a ground rod next to the pole. Even for this special clamps and connectors are required. Many times the secondary from the transformer to the house is a stranded wire made up of around 12ga strands (number of strands depends on gauge of wire).

If you can find an old power pole being torn down you might be able to get the wire off of it. Abandoned temp meter poles ofter have some secondary wire left attached to them that can be saved. This would be good free wire to make antennas. IF the pole is being thrown away you might can get you a pole to. You just need to ask them. I have asked when I saw the power company replacing poles and have received 6 of them for various uses.

I have asked when I saw the power company replacing poles and have received 6 of them for various uses.
My brother a while back got a whole bunch of them for free too .

Even for this special clamps and connectors are required.
Yep, aluminum to copper connections have two main problems, galvanic corrosion and the different expansion and contraction rates of the metals which loosens the connection over time.

aluminum to copper connections have two main problems, galvanic corrosion and the different expansion and contraction rates of the metals which loosens the connection over time.
For indoor connections, galvanic corrosion is a non-issue (dry). The metal oxidation ("rust") is the issue, along with expansion/contraction loosening the joints.

Aluminum oxidizes as quickly as one can strip/clean it, which is why they sell the little squeeze tubes of Ox-Gard. One is supposed to coat the aluminum with that goo, and then lightly abrade the oxide from it (while keeping it covered in the goo), and then attach it to the contact points with goo intact, for an oxide-free connection.

Cheers

sell the little squeeze tubes of Ox-Gard
What type of stores sell that ? I want to try some.

Here's an interesting reference page on anti-oxidizing agents:

http://sw-em.com/anti_corrosive_paste.htm

Home Depot sells Ox-Gard, as well. Small or large tube. In the electrical department, right near to the Al-rated wire nuts.

I have been experimenting with crudely-made SBGH and DBGH antennae indoors, but I realize I need to have the antenna outside for best results. Is there a consensus as to the best metal to use for the elements, as well as best gauge?
Does a GH antenna without reflectors recieve equally from front to back (figure 8 pattern)? The stations I want to recieve are located (nearly) opposite to each other: 16 - 30 degrees and 235 - 268 degrees:

http://www.tvfool.com/?option=com_wrapper&Itemid=29&q=id%3deb96d1a682

Yes, without the reflector, the same gain pattern front or back.

For outdoor use, cost, durability and workablity are issues. 6 gauge copper is very good as is 3/16" or 1/4" aluminum. Differences between copper and aluminum are small. If you want the very best, use solid gold, heh.

If I choose to go copper over aluminum (which I can get in the sizes specified), 6 AWG Copper wire seems to be hard to find around me. I can get copper rounds from Metal Supermarket in 3/16 and 1/4, which fall on either side of the diameter of 6 AWG so which would be better?

Personally, I would use the 3/16" over the 1/4" for the driven element. Its easier to work with, and is cheaper. For the reflector rods, I would use thicker stuff, preferably aluminum for the weight issue.

So for the best of both worlds, go with say 3/16" copper rounds for the driven element and 1/4" OD aluminum tube for the reflectors? I haven't been able to find suitable mesh so I am now planning to use reflector rods.

That sounds good to me. I used the common antenna 3/8" tubing on my reflector rod builds, and 8 gauge aluminum for the driven elements because I had it around. And 6 gauge (and 10 gauge) copper for the driven elements on the mesh models. 4 gauge is harder to work with and 6 gauge is strong enough IMO.

With copper elements, use brass or copper screws/bolts. With aluminum driven elements, use aluminum or zinc plated steel screws/bolts. This will minimize galvanic corrosion. For the reflector, its less critical.

Oops, I confused myself. 3/16" is still fatter than 6 AWG (in between 4 AWG and 5 AWG). The next smallest option is 1/8" which is roughly equivalent to 8 AWG. In theory would they perform roughly the same though and the 3/16" would be harder to work but more durable because of it?

In theory would they perform roughly the same though and the 3/16" would be harder to work but more durable because of it?
Yes and yes.

mclapp;

thanks more great info.

What would be the proper, most suited weld material for welding of the balun to phase lines, and for the welding of no. 10 copper whiskers to phase lines-

Do you mean weld or solder. When you weld, youll actually be melting the copper.

Or brazing, such as with Sil-Fos.

300ohm:

I meant the solder, I have always used the wrong term for this! what is the correct solder material and equipment?

torymon: re. brazing, I am not familiar...

thanks

Stronger joint than solder. Used in air conditioning and other high pressure copper piping joint connections.
It's nearly brazing the joint together.
A little more costly and takes higher heat than a soldering iron (you have to use a torch), but makes a much stronger connection.
You buy sil-fos by the stick, +/- 16" and use a oxy/acy or mapp gas torch to heat the connection until the sil-fos melts, just like solder.