TSC sells 2x4 welded mesh as "corn crib wire". I just bought some for a fence project and plan to use the leftovers to build an antenna. The last time I used it, i got it from the Co-op. It comes in 4 x100' rolls, and I don't know if they'll cut it.

I thought about doing some soldering to build my own mesh.
But then, since you mention the gap, what would be the best specs for a reflector grid ? 2x4 or more ? 2x6 ?


The less || vertical wires, the better, for wind load. The == horizontal wires are the important ones for North American TV antenna gain.

Sorry my question was not clear enough.

After seeing some wire at the hardware store I think it would be easy to use it and build a reflector with a plastic frame; the tension needed to keep the wires straight should not cause any distorsion. And tensioners can be added outside the frame.

The question remains: is 2" the best distance between each wire or should it be more (3") or less (1")? Is it irrelevant since we are mimicking a full sheet?

uglydukwling: What is TSC ?

The question remains: is 2" the best distance between each wire or should it be more (3") or less (1")? Is it irrelevant since we are mimicking a full sheet?

It is mimicking a full sheet, a solid sheet is ideal but any wind would tear down the mast and anything attached, heh. 1 inch distance is about 1 db better on the higher channels, but only about .33 db better on the low channels. 2 inch is a compromise between gain and wind load.

Thanks 300ohm.

So if I build 2 reflectors with a 2" gap it would be useful to alternate them.
One side being an inch under or over the other.

What do you think ?

It is mimicking a full sheet, a solid sheet is ideal but any wind would tear down the mast and anything attached, heh. 1 inch distance is about 1 db better on the higher channels, but only about .33 db better on the low channels. 2 inch is a compromise between gain and wind load.
FYI: I tried some 1" x 1" hardware mesh...the pole I had it attached to ended up in the shape of an "r". If the antenna hadn't stopped on the garage roof, it would have been a "p". I quickly rebuilt it with 2" x 3" rabbit wire, and it has withstood 45 mph winds with 1/2" ice attached to it. And we're talking a 6' DBGH. The reception is so much better than when I had it as 3" x 2", I imagine several dBm's (10-15 % signal vs. 35-40%). (With a CM-7000 converter box)

So the "ideal" reflector is a solid metal sheet?
Is this true for all SG6 and SG10 family designs?

ceeaton: Thanks for sharing your real life testing. I will definitely keep the 2" spacing.

asteroids: any reflecting surface put behind an antenna will improve the signal. A solid sheet will suffer the full force of gusting wind like ceeaton described. So it is best used inside, for attic installs.

So the "ideal" reflector is a solid metal sheet?
Is this true for all SG6 and SG10 family designs?
Dont misunderstand, you still need the gap for the extra gain, so its not one solid sheet of metal. The mesh reflector models try to approximate a solid sheet with the gap.

The rod reflector models are different. The rods individually resonate and produce unique properties and characteristics.

TSC is a farm supply chain. In the US, the signs say Tractor Supply Co, but in Canada they just use the initials. They have many stores here in s-w Ontario, but I don't know about the rest of the country.

The key is a close horizontal spacing of the wires the vertical running wires add nothing to the reception for these antennas.

As 300 ohm said eirlier in this thread I made a reflector using a PVC frame and drilled holes through it then strung small gauge wire back and forth through it. It's real pain but makes a cheap and very low wind resistance reflector since your are using the exsisting PVC frame. For a hoverman you have to deal with the split reflector but I'm sure that could be taken care of.

Here is a picture of a 4 bay I built with a wire reflector as I said it was a pain to string the wire and it kinked somethimes when I was stringing it. I just cut the wire and twisted it together and went on. I don't think you would really need the tensioner as long as you kept it tight as you were stringing it. The pvc will create some tensioning as you can see in the photo the pvc has a bit of a bow to it.

http://www.frontiernet.net/~mclapp/Antennas/PVC%204%20bay/PVC%204bay%20front-side%20with%20dimensions.jpg

Neat mclapp ! How many channels do you grab with that ?

uglydukwling: thanks. I never saw a TSC store in Quebec, even in farm land.

300ohm: thanks for insisting on the importance of gaps.

I went to the local Best Buy tonight, and they are now stocking the new Clearstream C2 figure 8 antenna. I carefully measured the mesh and its 1 1/2 inches up and down for the = horizontal wires and 2 inches between the || vertical mesh pieces. Of course, the extra plastic used around the figure 8 element (probably for looks) negates any good wind resistance. And the whole set up looked flimsy and cheap to me. Heh, I guess they didnt have the nerve to stick a price on it in public.

We see lots of artistic creativity in antenna design, don't we ? :eek:

My local Rona (I'm heading to Home Depot tonight) does not seem to have copper wire in the sizes indicated in this thread but do have Romex insulated copper in the 12-2/3 and 14-2/3 variaties. Would either of these sizes work and how would they compare to #6 or #10 copper?

Also, pricing out the PVC pieces, the prices seem to be much higher than the numbers listed in this thread. For example, the 1/2" electrical conduit sold at Rona is $3.48 for a 10ft piece. I also could not find any packs of the plumbing "joining" pieces, never mind the price difference. I looked in the plumbing and electical sections. I also did not find any mesh that would be suitable for the reflector. Am I looking in the wrong area of these stores (would a contractor section have what I'm looking for?) or has pricing and packaging just changed that much?

I've found that Home Depot always has #10 solid copper on spools for cutting, so you should be alright. They carry several different colours of it so even if they're out of one they'll have the others.

Regarding pricing, let's keep in mind that many of our members are from the U.S. so Canadians might need to factor in the exchange rate depending on whose numbers are posted. :)

Interesting that copper wire pricing came up. I just called a couple of Electric Equipment and Supplies Distributors/Wholesalers in my area and got quoted $.28 and $.26 a foot for 6 gauge solid copper wire, no minimum length. Much cheaper than the $.84 a foot Lowes or Home Depot want.

Figure using 10 ft for a SBGH, 20 ft for a DBGH.

I was looking for aluminum grounding wire, but no one around here has it.

Aluminum house wiring seems to have fallen out of favor after the problems they had with it years ago. Supposedly the modern Cu-Al terminals solve that problem, but I don't think many care to chance it, so that's probably why it's hard to find.

Dave

Yep, aluminum house wire in new homes in Canada is against code so its basically gone. In my own 37-year-old home I've had to change out the last foot of aluminum wire to copper with marettes and tape at each receptacle or switch to meet code. I can't tell you the amount of frazzled aluminum ends I've had to chuck out in the process.

It must be the same in the U.S. too, thus the problems finding aluminum ground wire.

It is still code legal to use the stuff here, but you need to use devices rated for Al. However, folks are scared of the stuff & if you own a home wired with Al, your home value probably takes a hit, even if it's all done correctly.

I think it's the perception that there's a problem that keeps folks away from it nowadays.

Dave