OTA Rotors: Channel Master, Yaesu, Hy-Gain, AlfaSpid, Others - Page 6 - Canadian TV, Computing and Home Theatre Forums

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post #76 of 1003 (permalink) Old 2006-09-14, 06:46 PM
 
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is there such thing as wireless rotors? ie you plug your rotor straight into power, and then the controlling of the rotor is via a wireless connection, whehter it's to a reciever or remote.
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post #77 of 1003 (permalink) Old 2006-09-15, 02:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 026163 View Post
is there such thing as wireless rotors? ie you plug your rotor straight into power, and then the controlling of the rotor is via a wireless connection, whehter it's to a reciever or remote.
I can't see wireless being a good thing... If it was wireless, wouldn't you have to go up and change the batteries every now and then?

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post #78 of 1003 (permalink) Old 2006-09-15, 03:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom.F.1 View Post
I can't see wireless being a good thing... If it was wireless, wouldn't you have to go up and change the batteries every now and then?
Wireless has often come to be known as not needing control wires even though power wires are still needed. I think this is what 026163 was meaning since he said:

Quote:
ie you plug your rotor straight into power
In a way, that new rotor from Eagle Aspen that Ham.Clan was talking about is close to what 026163 is wanting since the power and data signals for the rotor travel along the existing coax. Not actually "wireless" but it doesn't require any additional wires.
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post #79 of 1003 (permalink) Old 2006-09-15, 05:17 PM
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What would really be gained? 100ft of rotor wire for a C/M rotor only cost me $15.00.
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post #80 of 1003 (permalink) Old 2006-09-18, 09:53 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jbracing24 View Post
What would really be gained? 100ft of rotor wire for a C/M rotor only cost me $15.00.
Convenience. Most people have coax dragged inside the house but not rotor wire.
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post #81 of 1003 (permalink) Old 2006-09-18, 10:20 AM
 
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I love the CM9521a remote controlled rotor

I had my OTA gear installed on Saturday by Wight Electronic Services out of Princeton. Lorne is the owner/installer and he did an incredible job for a very reasonable price.
He swapped out all my old RG-59 cable for RG-6 with compression "F" connectors (nice touch I thought) and installed new rotor wire. I could have used the old stuff that was there, but why when all new stuff is going in?
I love the CM9521a remote controlled rotor!
What a great piece of equipment. Totally silent and inconspicuous. I have the unit sitting on top of my subwoofer, and you don't even notice it's there.
Good-bye to the old fire hazzard CM9510 and the annoying sound it made as it tuned in.
Only negative, it's one more darn remote. I need a bigger coffee table!
Anyway, that's my experience, and it was a very positive one.
I'll post all of the channels I've been able to get in the OTA reception thread (Hamilton, Burlington, Brantford)

Ham.Clan

Last edited by Ham.Clan; 2006-09-18 at 10:34 AM.
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post #82 of 1003 (permalink) Old 2006-11-20, 08:11 PM
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cm9521a rotor jammed?

I'd like to avoid taking my antenna down to test the cm9521a rotor. Yeaterday I turned my antenna (2-4228s stacked) to point to Mt. Seymour to pick up the Grey Cup game on CBC 02.1 (100% on Bev 9200). The controller displayed 360 which means the rotor stopped at the end of the rotation. Now the rotor is stuck at this location. Tried jiggling antenna, reset controller, checked voltage,etc. Any other ideas would be appreciated.
Thanks, Joe.
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post #83 of 1003 (permalink) Old 2006-11-21, 09:15 AM
 
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New rotator: ROTR100

Not sure if it's been mentioned before but it will mean less wire to string.

Not affiliated with the company, just info for the members.

http://www.eagleaspen.com./news/news_1.php?id=23
Quote:
New Spin On An Old Technology

Introducing the new Eagle Aspen single cable off air antenna rotator; model ROTR100. The days of having to run separate “3 conductor rotor wire” between the drive unit and the control unit are in the past. Pro Brand has developed the ROTR100 utilizing DiSEqC code that sends commands to control the drive unit along the same coaxial cable that brings the television signals from the off air antenna into the house. Optional pre-amplifier power can also be supplied via this same cable. Whether performing a new install or retrofitting an existing antenna system, the ROTR100 provides for a fast and easy installation. Additional features have been added making the entire system installer and user friendly:

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post #84 of 1003 (permalink) Old 2006-12-03, 03:17 PM
 
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More on New DiSEqC controled rotor

This was introduced a couple of months ago. I didn't see anything in this forum, so I though it would be worthwhile to mention this. It solves the problem of mis-calbration between the rotor and the control box.;
http://www.eagleaspen.com/products/products_1.php?id=90

But, I do see three problems/issues;

1. There is a 2db additional loss. This is because the downlead goes through the rotor and the control box as opposed to straight from the antenna to your TV.
2. This is fine for one TV, but for multiple sets, the feed for additional outlets would have to be off the output of the control box, not up near where the downlead enters the building (attic or crawl space). This is a serious issue with any setup other than one or maybe two TVs', especially where one has a 'weak signal' issue(s).
3. If you need to 'amp' the signal and you have issues with very strong and very weak signals, the amp would be after the control box also where additional loss already occured.

DiSEqC sounds good on paper, but with the small 350ma current limitation, it restricts the size of the motor and puts a serious restraint on the touque of the rotor. Fine for smaller antennas, but a possible problem for very large installs, just as with FTA dishes. Running a 2nd wire along with the coxial cable is really no big deal. Cost and labor time is almost nill.
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post #85 of 1003 (permalink) Old 2006-12-06, 09:32 PM
 
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Rotator pre-installation tip

This valuable tip comes from my installer, Aubrey, from AF Marsh in Brampton, Ont.

Before installing the rotator, check that the threaded rods are completely seated in the drive housing.
To do this, loosen the nuts on the threaded rods so that there is some open threads next to the housing. Then thread the rods in until they are seated fully in the housing. Then tighten the nuts down.

By doing this, you are assured that your rotator is secure and not dangling by a couple threads. Picture in your minds eye, if you will, some fellow on the assembly line quickly threading in the rod a few turns and then tightening the nuts.

One threaded rod on my CM 9251a rotator took 15 twists of the fingers to seat completely.
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post #86 of 1003 (permalink) Old 2006-12-13, 10:03 AM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HDTV101 View Post
You can't really test it without the control box... it's not a standard AC or DC motor. It's a Phase Shift AC motor. All 3 wires are used to drive it... one is common and the other 2 are the phase wires. Between the 2 phase wires there is a phase shift... by reversing the 2 phase wires the motor will reverse. This is the most practical way to make an AC motor reversible. The same technique is used with Elevators and Escalators to reverse their motors that are AC powered.
This is a older post, but I couldn't help but comment on this.
No wonder I had trouble trying to figure out the wiring of the motor running voltage checks. Very interesting. Great tip.
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post #87 of 1003 (permalink) Old 2006-12-13, 10:14 AM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Yaamon View Post
Channel Master made some improvements to their rotors to improve the performance in colder weather. Lets hope that they no longer freeze up when the temp get below 32'F.

This is how the new Channel Master rotors looks inside.

Visible improvements:
The motor is now mounted by 3 screws vs 2 for the older design.
The wires are now connected by push type connector.
More grease you can see it where the main bolt is.
Not a visible difference:
The black rubber seal is improved supossed to be better to prevent moisture from getting in.
The motor itself has more torque.
With the 4 or 5 of this type of rotor design (mostly orginal Channel Master), the outstanding issue was dried, caked on grease! I have to scrap all the old dried grease away, spray it with cleaner to remove the rest and re-apply grease. The ones that completly 'froze', even in the summer were completely fine afterwards. The area wasn't the bottom plate, it was the upper ball bearing area. (I only 'lost' one ball bearing out of all the rotors I disassembled.)

I'm not sure if that "push type" connector is a better idea. A 'screw' terminal I believe has more 'contact area' than a 'crimp' type. It makes it easier to install no doubt.

I also see the mounting plate doesn't cover the whole housing as if I remember use to. There is a 'gap' around the plate, possible to improve air flow (condensation prevention?).
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post #88 of 1003 (permalink) Old 2006-12-13, 10:26 AM
 
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Regarding the Eagle Aspen rotor, that post was made eleswhere as I didn't see this thread.

Someone else pointed out that the issue of routing the signal through the rotor could be eliminated just by running a 2nd cable, or better yet just a 2 conductor wire to the rotor and running the downlead to the set(s) just as before. Defeats the 'single wire' concept, but who cares.
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post #89 of 1003 (permalink) Old 2006-12-16, 11:01 PM
 
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Thanks to all, esp. Yaamon and VideoBruce for their pic and posts about the CM 9521A rotator and controller.

Got mine from eBay and only got it to rotate a few degrees on the bench before it froze up. After reading and rereading all the info I could on Google, I used my experiences from modifiying CBs and repairing instruments to verify that the controler was putting out a correct phased 18 volt signal and diagnosed the problem to the fact that the gears had froze.

As I was taking the motor houseing apart I found and resoldered a cold solder joint on the single resistor on the small circut board that held the connector wire clips, Retested before continuing to take it apart.. still did not rotate, motor only hummed, so I dove in...

I then got carefully removed all the clips that held the main shaft and all the gears, counting the ball bearings and diagraming the gears, washers and clips.

All came apart fairly easily (those clips requires some specialized pliers I have and alot of patience and control) until I got to the last gear that meshes with the motor shaft. That one was jammed and had to be carefully pryed off with a large flat tipped screw driver, working around the outside from underneath, around and around again. This is where the problem was.

Once everything was off, I reconnected wires and the motor ran fine by itself in both directions!! Boy was I relieved to see that!!!!

I put that last gear back on and tried to rotate by had, it hung up because it was so tight. The adjustment bar is held in by 2 sealed screws, so I did not want to try to adjust that, might bugger it up...

I found a tube of silicone plumbers grease and applied it all over the teeth and kept working it back and forth by hand until it seemed to move a bit better. Wired it up again and had the controler run it back and forth a few degrees at a time. The gear teeth worked them selves in and soon ran freely.

I then carefully replaced all the parts back in reverse order with liberal amounts of the grease, recounted ball bearings and tightened up all the screws. It now works 100% Whoppee!!

Note: make sure you have an absolutly clean place to do this if you ever chose to try it. Any tiny bits of "crude" could cause alot of damage to the gear teeth. Keep some paper towels at hand as the gease is very messy.

I hate sending something back and fighting about shipping etc. when I know it can be fixed.. I should retire and do more Quality Control!!!
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post #90 of 1003 (permalink) Old 2006-12-17, 09:49 AM
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strobo43 great job and good write up, seems like the rotors need some good grease to keep it from seizing over time.

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