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TVs with best reception OTA

13K views 47 replies 12 participants last post by  daggry 
#1 ·
To replace an old Panasonic I was going to buy a Toshiba 43" until I saw the comment that the tuner is not very sensitive for reception.

What are the new TVs, best known for their tuner, if that is possible.

We have 4 TV and my best for reception is our old 2011 Samsung UN22D5000NF, not the first connected to the antenna.
 
#2 ·
If you are happy with the reception of your samsung, I can't understand why you would consider switching brands when in the market for a new one? My advice would be to go with what has worked well for you.
 
#3 ·
Features and specification change from model to model and year to year so sticking with a particular brand is not a good policy for making purchase decisions. Most "name brand" TV makers no longer manufacture smaller sets. They outsource them to other companies so components may be quite different from flagship models or previous years.

Having said that, Panasonic has a reputation for having the best OTA tuners so it may be a good bet. Just make sure the particular model lives up to that reputation. Samsung appears to have significantly cut the quality of their low end models to compete in the low price segment of the TV marketplace so those models are not a good bet. Toshiba is currently experiencing serious financial problems so that may be another reason to avoid the Toshiba set.

I always go with the TV that has the best picture for the price. An external tuner or, preferably, a DVR can be added later for OTA use. One exception may be for a TV that is being used for DXing.
 
#4 ·
TV best for OTA?

Keep in mind that unless they have changed things, Samsung TV's are VERY difficult to enter OTA channels directly. Most often a channel scan is required and it usually doesn't pick up all the channels you are looking for. If you have co channel interference/overlap in your area, especially after days of major tropo activity, this can become a real pain. I currently have two Samsung TV's and they were bought because in my opinion they had the best picture. However I didn't investigate thoroughly enough the way they are set up in the tools/menu for OTA. I have found that the LG/Zenith TV's are setup well for OTA with relatively easy access to signal strength indicators and manual entry of the digital broadcast number. Also, since most TV's these days are so called "smart" TV's, the Samsung smarts are very poor in my opinion. All online content that it accesses is through the Samsung server...something that they don't tell you when you buy the set. In this way they control the apps and probably they get a kickback or cut of revenue from the app designer or advertising they present and they can control what you can watch. You are better off with a plain old TV and a chromecast which will allow you to view anything online on your TV. There is further discussion regarding best OTA tuners elsewhere on this site. It's informative reading. You might want to check it out...
 
#5 ·
I as well am not pleased with the OTA part of my Smart Samsung. The tuner is not very sensitive and just to get a signal strength read out involve like 8 presses of the remote to get to the reading.

I can however enter channels directly. I do not have to do a full scan.

I have an older Dynex LCD which has a far better tuner and instant signal strength readout. This TV will receive stations that the Samsung misses.
 
#6 ·
I've had experiences with Samsung, Sony, Toshiba, and Panasonic TVs.

The OTA tuners on Panasonic TVs seem to be the best in my opinion.

I agree with the comments on Samsung - PITA to get channels programmed, but the tuner is OK.

Both Sony and Toshiba TVs I've used are junk with OTA - they can pick up the mid-range signals no problems, but have problems with overload on close signals, and don't do well with far away signals.

Just my experiences...
 
#7 ·
The model year of TVs is also important. There have been significant advances in ATSC tuners over the past 10-15 years. Sets with high end tuners made in the past 5 years would have a much better tuner than a comparable set that is 10-15 years old. I would guess that a lot of set makers now use lower quality OTA chips to save costs since features like apps for OTT services have become more important as a selling point. My newest TV doesn't have a tuner but it does have Netflix.
 
#8 ·
I've tested several TV's in the last few years and have learned the following. 2010 Samsung has a fairly good tuner but not quite as sensitive as a 2010 Sony. A 2014 Insignia has a better tuner than the 2010 Samsung. A 2015 LG and 2016 Insignia have tuners that are equally sensitive. A 2015 Samsung is the worst of the bunch.

I will be shopping for a new 32 inch very soon since I want a TV that is lighter weight to mount on the wall. Don't dare try it with the 2010 Samsung which I still own since it weighs something like 20 lbs. without the mounting bracket. I will be doing more research on Tuners to see what is best. Didn't know that Panasonic still made TV's? Will have to look at them.
 
#9 ·
My 32" Toshiba set weighed about 50-60lb. It was a chore to lift, especially to a wall mount. It was a 2004 model.

Most 32" sets sold these days are rock bottom in price and quality. Be prepared to spend a little more for a decent tuner, or any tuner at all. As I already mentioned, another option would be to get a DLNA tuner or PVR and a smart TV that supports DLNA. That would open up a lot of options such as watching OTT services, recorded TV and other content on disk in addition to watching live TV.

As far as make of TV is concerned, the traditional big name brands aren't interested in the low end of the market. Better value will be found in some of the smaller, newer brands such as Vizio or TCL. They all probably roll off the same assembly lines anyway. The younger companies just have lower prices and offer more features and better quality components in order to get market share the big brands take for granted.
 
#10 ·
ExDilbert. Funny that you should mention TCL. Someone on the TV Fool forum swears his TCL TV has a better tuner for OTA than LG or any other new TV. Someone else said it stunk. Not sure who to believe.

I would rather not buy a TV larger than 32 inches. The larger TV's give off a lot more heat due to the power requirements. Even my 2010 Samsung seems to clock in at 175 watts in average use and that poses some issues in the warmer months in the room where it is located. Newer 32 inch TV's use a fraction of that power.

Are you sure a 40 inch TV would have a superior OTA tuner to a 32 inch? I would think they are all the same these days based upon what I've read. Do they have different tuners for lower end gear vs. higher end gear? I know there are differences with some when it comes to Smart TV features.

To be honest I only watch OTA TV. Not a junkie by any stretch. I don't need Smart TV features either. Just a good, stable and sensitive OTA tuner in a TV that does not use a lot of juice.
 
#11 ·
I only mentioned TCL because I just read a review mentioning how good the picture was on one of their 32" sets. Unfortunately, it didn't mention the OTA tuner. Like many makers, they have 4 series of sets with different panels and different features. They all have OTA tuners but the company lists no info on them like sensitivity, S/N ratio or adjacent channel rejection. There may be a difference in tuners between series or maybe not. Once the field has been narrowed, it may be possible to obtain tuner specifications or chip type from the makers.

The main difference in power draw is due to panel type, back lighting and size of set. Most TVs these days are LCD with LED backlighting. That's a significant power saving over florescent back lighting that was more common over 5 years ago. LED backlighting can be either edge lit or side lit. Back lit is generally better with more lights being better and dynamic brightness being better still. In addition to providing a better picture, dynamic brightness can save power as can simply turning down the level on the backlighting. Some sets may also offer power saving modes.

TVs with best reception OTA
"Best" is a very subjective term and can vary depending on perception and circumstances. What is best in a rural environment with distant channels could be worst in dense urban areas with many high powered signals. Maybe the "best" questions to ask are things like what tuner chip is in each TV model, what are the specs and how well will it work in my environment.
 
#12 · (Edited)
Ideally the best way to test the OTA tuners is to have the store hook up the sets to an OTA antenna and do a side by side comparision. I wonder how many stores would do it and what lame excuses for not doing so would they come up with?


Or bring a rabbit ears antenna.
 
#13 · (Edited)
IMO, the best OTA tuner will depend on what the characteristcs of the signals in your reception area.

If you are dealing with multi-path issues, you may find that a tuner that equalizes and resolves signals coming from two directions may not do as well with very weak signals and vice versa.
Unfortunately, real time comparisons may not be too helpful; even bringing rabbit ears that capture whatever signal is present in the showroom will not help you choose the tuner that will work the best with your home signal.

Fortunately, pre-amps can lower the noise figure of the tuner to help stabilize weak channels and antennas with narrower beams can reduce multi-path.
 
#14 ·
Chinadog. Good information. I've got a strange situation though. I am able to receive three relatively weak stations at my home when I point my UHF antenna at a neighbors home. LOL However, when I point the UHF at 15 degrees where the towers are located, one station will come in if I have the antenna at around 17 feet in height. Another at around 15 feet in height (when I lower it a couple of feet) and the other one comes in at either height. And when I move the mast 10 feet to the west these stations only seem to come in when I point the antenna back at the neighbors roof. That is where I will be leaving the antenna since I need the other spot for something else.

Thus in my case multiparty may actually be helping at least in the case of receiving the weaker out of town signals. NM on all three ranges from 4 to about 8 on the plus side. All are two edge.

One thing I've learned is that I have better success receiving these signals along with the local stations with a 4 bay or 8 bay. Get less break up in the signals on channels that break up with a Yagi. Yagi styles are not good at my location probably since I am in a urban area near a lot of towers and the area is multipath prone.
 
#15 ·
Billiam62
Just an idle thought out of curiosity...You know where you get certain channels well and you can see where TVFool shows the transmission points for those channels. By using TVFool and clicking on "Satellite" as well as "Show lines pointing to each transmitter" and then zooming right in on your house it may be possible for you to determine where you "think" the signals are bouncing in order to get to your various, known, good reception locations. Armed with that information you might then be able to guestimate where the optimal location for your antenna to get all your channels might be...and then give that location a try.
 
#16 ·
@Billiam62, It sounds like the best place for your antenna is on the neighbor's roof. LOL

But realistically, 17' is kind of low for an antenna, especially if there are houses and trees within sight. Raising it another 5' or 10' may make all the channels available. Plugging different heights into TVFool until they all become 1 edge will give a good height to aim for. LOS would be ideal but is not always easily obtained.
 
#17 ·
Mapmaker. I will give that a look. I have not tried the Satellite feature yet.

Since I just moved my antenna mast back to the original position 10 feet to the west, it will require some relearning where getting the three weakest signals is concerned. I am going to put in a cement base and raise the mast to at least 21 feet to get the UHF antenna over the apex of the roof. I think that along with using a 4 or 8 bay again will eliminate the picture breakup. I noted during thunderstorms that both my U4000 and Super G 1483 8 bay would hold a steady picture without breakup while the MXU 47, MXU 59, HBU 22 and new Televes DAT 790 Mix would or will have picture break up at times.
 
#18 ·
based on the fact you are using a preamp, as you posted in this other thread, and are only 3.4 miles from transmitters per your tvfool, the symptoms you describe are implying you are having intermod distortion problems, not multipath problems.

correct me if I am wrong here is your tvfool:
http://www.digitalhome.ca/forum/186...72178-4-bay-antenna-question.html#post2895818

Lowering the height, adds more pathloss between your antenna and the transmitters,
ie obstructions like your neighbors houses, etc. reduces the strength overall of signals entering your preamp, which in turn gets it out of intermod trouble, which in turn reduces the noise floor, which results in better reception overall. As described by holl_ands numerous times, if your preamp is in intermod territory, for every 1 dB of reduced input signal, reduces the output noise floor by 3 dB.

Try the same test without the preamp at all, and I suspect you will have much different results. You might have better luck keeping the noise floor under control, using an antenna with only modest gain. Say a GH without any reflectors or even 'stealth hawk'.

I would really suggest getting a PC based tuner that can indicate both Signal Strength, in dBm and SNR in dB, so you will have a better understanding of what is going on.
Many devices like the hauppauge 950q, or the hdhomerun are not that good at accurately displaying the 'strength' of signals to the user, because they "Top Out" too early to be useful for troubleshooting like this. My favorite device for such tests is the newer hauppauge 955Q.
Which seems to have a wide range of SNR indication, and also provides an indication of Strength in dBm.
At least when used in linux it does. I can't speak for windows, since I don't use windows.
 
#20 · (Edited)
based on the fact you are using a preamp, as you posted in this other thread, and are only 3.4 miles from transmitters per your tvfool, the symptoms you describe are implying you are having intermod distortion problems, not multipath problems.

correct me if I am wrong here is your tvfool:
http://www.digitalhome.ca/forum/186...72178-4-bay-antenna-question.html#post2895818
Nice catch majortom. The number of strong signals and their very high levels definitely indicate an issue when using a preamp. Any preamp in use would need to be extremely resistant to overload and quite moderate in gain in order to prevent tuner overload.
Well, including holl_ands, that's four of us that think overload when we see his report.

I'm not able to be at his location to make signal measurements, but after seeing a satellite view of his area and reading his posts on another forum, I'm willing to give him the benefit of a doubt.

It would be helpful if Billiam62 could show us some photos of the trees around his house in the north direction.



Using his former username, Billiam gave more background information about his location. The rules of this forum don't allow me to link to another forum, but here are a few quotes that indicated trees are a problem:
Billiam said:
Potentially another flag on the play.
This morning before a very severe thunderstorm moved into the area I reinstalled the Antennacraft U4000 with the Titan pre amp. I did note that all my channels returned.
However, during the storm I lost several channels including local which I presume was due to the heavy rain and wind. I've never see this happen before except with really weak signals when I was living in a rural area.
This is by far the most perplexing situation I've had for receiving TV signals.
Billiam said:
The DAT 790 gave me stronger gain than the U4000 but a little less than my Super G 1483. I don't want to use either antenna at this location since there are trees and limbs nearby that could easily damage the antenna. Want something currently in production that can easily be replaced with the identical antenna should it meet an untimely demise due to weather.
Billiam said:
Rabbit. Yes, trees and buildings are a major issue at this spot. Thus I need a pre amp even for the local channels. Hard to believe but it really does help.
Billiam said:
I think the leaves on the trees are starting to impact the weaker signals on the TV Fool report. Have noted a bit of a drop in SS tonight though 2, 7 and 22 are still viewable. If this becomes a daily occurrence I will probably buy a larger Yagi or 8 Bay in lieu of the 4 bay.
Billiam said:
Joe. Thankfully I have not had to worry about overload when using a pre amp at this location. Despite the fact I am very close to some very strong signals, I seem to be in a pit that repels signals which results in none of my local channels getting pegged on the SS meter without a pre amp even when using a Deep Fringe antenna like the Super G 1483 or MXU59.
 
#19 ·
Nice catch majortom. The number of strong signals and their very high levels definitely indicate an issue when using a preamp. Any preamp in use would need to be extremely resistant to overload and quite moderate in gain in order to prevent tuner overload. It could also explain why the antenna works better when it is aimed at the neighbor's roof as that might reduce the level of all signals, reducing overload issues. Using a preamp in this scenario, I would expect to see IM distortion causing harmonic signals across the UHF band due to preamp or tuner overload. That would interfere with weaker signals.
 
#21 ·
I can't be there either, but if that is indeed his 'hood, I see no more trees there than any other typical neighborhood, including mine. The trees may actually help. Just like we assume his neighbor's houses are helping.

If it were me I would get a new PC based tuner, so I could see what is going on in terms of strength vs SNR on the various channels. If I wanted to reduce the input signal and keep some semblance of LOS paths, I would add some attenuation between the antenna and preamp, 2 Way splitter, with one port terminated to 75 ohms, plus an extremely long length of RG-6 coax coiled up might be enough to help keep the noise floor under control on the preamp output and is another simple test to try. But without any way to measure what is going on before and after, still kinda guessing.

Seems to work for me here, allowing me to aim straight at Grand Island, and still be able to receive a few of the stronger of stations from the distant CN tower, which is some 60 miles or so right in line behind Grand Island Transmitters. Could never do that before adding the extra attenuation, which for me was only about a 6 dB reduction in signal strength across the board. Previously would have to do that by aiming away from Grand Island. Like putting the welders goggles on to watch that solar eclipse...
But as holl_ands would say could result in up to 18 dB reduction in Noise (IMD to be specific).
 
#34 · (Edited)
Seems to work for me here, allowing me to aim straight at Grand Island, and still be able to receive a few of the stronger of stations from the distant CN tower, which is some 60 miles or so right in line behind Grand Island Transmitters. Could never do that before adding the extra attenuation, which for me was only about a 6 dB reduction in signal strength across the board. Previously would have to do that by aiming away from Grand Island. Like putting the welders goggles on to watch that solar eclipse...
That's a good example of how to optimize the SFDR of your equipment to match the signal dynamic range at your location. But, if the difference between the strongest signals and the weakest desired signal is too great, the attenuator technique fails because you run out of weak signal. The required SFDR is too great.

As you increase attenuation, the weak signal SNR improves because the noise floor drops faster than the weak signal drops. At first glance, it seems counterintuitive that you can improve the SNR of the weak signal by making it weaker.
But as holl_ands would say could result in up to 18 dB reduction in Noise (IMD to be specific).
That is not exactly correct. If you are dealing only with IMD, then for every one dB of attenuation, the IMD spurs will drop the noise floor 3 dB, but you are also reducing your weak signal. This gives you a potential net SNR gain of 2 dB, not 3 dB.

I pushed some amplified signals into a CM7777HD preamp to produce IMD.
Code:
[B]
CM7777HD#1 Overload Test, LOW Gain Setting

Atten  SONY  Signal Noise*  SigTo  CH33Sig**  CH33Sig***
 dB    SNR   CH 45   CH43   Noise  into #1    out of #1
       dB    dBmV    dBmV    dB     

  0     0     5.0    -6      11     10 dBmV   26 dBmV(-22.8dBm)
  1     0     3.0    -9.8    12.8
  2     0     1.2   -12.2    13.4
  3     0     0.2   -13.8    14.0
  4     0    -1.0   -14.5    13.5
  5     0    -2.0   -15.8    13.8
  6    14    -3.0   -17.0    14.0
  7    15    -4.5   -20.8    16.3
  8    16    -6.0   -22.1    16.1 strongest CH 45 stable signal
  9    16    -7.0   -23.8    16.8
 10    16    -8.0   -25.2    17.2

CH 45 is weakest reliable signal here
* CH 43 is nearby unused channel to measure noise floor
** CM specs say MAX input to preamp is 10 dBmV
*** CM specs say MAX output is 34 dBmV. CH 33 is strongest 
   local signal. It, and 3 other strong channels (16, 29, and 40) 
   cause  the IMD.
[/B]
I increased the attenuation in 1 dB steps until CH 45 was stable with an SNR on the TV of 16 dB.

As I increased the attenuation, the signal did get weaker, but the interference was reduced more rapidly. This is because the IMD is reduced 3 dB for each 1 dB of the attenuator, making the SNR net gain of 2 dB for each one dB of the attenuator. This is confirmed by the 20 dB drop in the noise for the 10 dB of attenuation.

There isn't a perfect correlation between the attenuator steps and the change in signal readings. This is because my OTA signals aren't as stable as I would like, and the noise floor here will vary because of the local electrical interference. In spite of that, I think the test is still valid.
 
#22 · (Edited)
On Sunday if I have time I will go ahead and take down the DAT 790 Mix and reinstall the U4000 and also try the Super G 1483. In both cases I didn't see any picture break up like I've had with the DAT 790 Mix even when using the pre amp. The built in pre amp of the DAT 790 may be part of the problem.

This is a bizarre location for TV and radio reception. When I used the mast that was 10 feet further to the east I was able to pick up Ch. 2, 7, 22 and 26 (virtual channels) when the antennas were pointed at 15 degrees. But in the case of the Yagi's I've tried I had to put the antenna at 17 feet at that compass heading to get Ch. 2. Raising it another couple of feet would yield Ch. 7 but I would lose Ch. 2. Ch. 26 comes in better with more height at that spot. Ch. 22 comes in fine regardless of the height. But when pointing the antenna to 100 degrees at my neighbors house I can get Ch. 2, 7 and 22 but not 26. But now with the DAT 790 mix on the mast 10 feet further to the west I don't receive any of the Dayton signals unless I have it pointed to the house at 100 degrees. Still get 2, 7 and 22 but not 26. Writing off 26 now since it will be going bye bye in the Repack. Just need 2, 7 and 22.

Me thinks that the problem will be solved by using the 4 or 8 bay again and pointed at the house. Will try different heights to see what works best.. I can probably get a maximum height of 21 to 22 feet which will get the antenna above the roof line to the NW where Ch. 5 (virtual ch.) is located which is one of the signals that breaks up even when it is pointed at the compass heading in that direction. Don't recall it off the top of my head but I think 346 degrees is about right. The TV Fool report that was mentioned is accurate. Very likely the trees are the problem since they are all over the place. Tall building nearby also contribute to the problem. It is so bad at this spot that I can't even pick up ANY DX! Ugh.

My Samsung TV has a SS readout of the SNR. I use a Mac but don't have a tuner for it. Not sure I would use it even if I had it.
 
#23 ·
SNR alone doesn't tell the full story. What you need is a tuner that displays a wide range of both SNR and Strength, especially without maxing out in strength. That is where most if not all other consumer devices fail and can mislead.
 
#24 ·
Yes, I think I know what you mean. I recall my old 2010 Sony had both features. But that is the only TV I've owned that did. All the others like the Insignia and LG had only the SS meter and not the SNR readout.

Do you know of any new TV's that have both? I would rather not buy a stick for a computer which likely would not get used at any time other than the initial use to troubleshoot. And I don't want to buy something, use it once and return it under false pretenses.
 
#28 · (Edited)
I recall my old 2010 Sony had both features. But that is the only TV I've owned that did. All the others like the Insignia and LG had only the SS meter and not the SNR readout.

Do you know of any new TV's that have both? I would rather not buy a stick for a computer which likely would not get used at any time other than the initial use to troubleshoot. And I don't want to buy something, use it once and return it under false pretenses.
I like the Diagnostic screen on the Sony TVs that I have had: two 22", two 32", and one 40". They all have relative signal strength, SNR, and uncorrected errors. Unfortunately, the signal strength scale is different on each model. This is because a design team for a model is given the freedom to design it as they think best. This approach encourages innovation, but is more costly, and it contributed to the financial troubles for Sony.

Now, the bean counters are in charge. The designs are less expensive, but there is less innovation that made Sony famous.

Since I have a signal level meter calibrated in dBmV, I have been able to compare the sensitivity of my Sony tuners by using a splitter, and a variable attenuator in real time. Disconnecting the antenna from one tuner and connecting it to another doesn't work well, because OTA signals are constantly changing in strength. This has also allowed me to calibrate the TV signal strength scale.

My first Sony was a KDL22L5000.

Bad signal with picture freeze, SNR below 15 dB, and uncorrected errors:



Good signal:



Calibration curve:



Note that the calibration curve will MAX out at 0 dBmV, which is about what the cable companies aim for at the wall plate. The tuner is capable of handling signals up to +41 dBmV (-8 dBm) without damage. If you are making improvements to your antenna system, you will not see them if you are already at MAX, and will need to add an attenuator to measure the improvement.
 
#25 ·
sorry I do not...
Obviously it is not as practical to buy and test multiple TVs, as it is to buy and test numerous PC based tuners.
To demonstrate, below is from the hdhomerun that I have, while aimed straight at the Grand Island Transmitter site which as I mentioned above has a couple flame thrower high power TV transmitters.

If you went by the Strength column, your screwed, because it maxes out at 100 % way too early. That is what the user normally sees if they use the stock hdhomerun application provided.... If you look at the Calc_dBm column (last column on the right), that is my empirically determined real signal strength that we incorporated in to forum member 905Shmick's bash script. And that just happens to correlate fairly well with the dBm value as reported by my 955q, which can report dBm as it sees it straight away. So IMO, it's good enough to get an idea what's really going on. 14, 32, and 43 are the high power stations on GI, while 19, 20, 25 and 41 are distant stations on the CN tower some 70 miles from here that would be impossible to lock if one were to aim straight at the CN tower, which is in line with the much closer high power GI stations.
Remove that extra 6dB attenuation across the board all them signals will increase by 6 dB in strength, which in turn would drive the preamp in to
producing IMD. Remember this is at the bottom of the downlead, after amplification. So you can imagine/back your way in to what the preamp is seeing on the input. If the reduction in attenuation doesn't result in an across the board 1 for 1 increase in strength, the preamp is in compression, causing distortion. Same as if you cranked the volume up on your stereo until it becomes distorted.

The misleading part is that if all your strong signals indicate 100% on whatever device you have, what is that... 100% of what?
You have no clue whatsoever how strong they REALLY are. And that is why I say nearly all consumer devices fail in this regard.

Code:
14 channels found
RF    Strngth    dBmV    dBm    Quality    SNR    Symbol    dbg    Calc_dBmV    Calc_dBm
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
14    100    0.0    -48.8    90    29.7    100    -234    26.0        -22.7
15    100    0.0    -48.8    60    19.8    100    -405    2.1        -46.6
17    100    0.0    -48.8    93    30.7    100    -276    20.2        -28.6
19    71    -17.4    -66.2    65    21.4    100    -550    -18.2        -67.0
20    74    -15.6    -64.3    69    22.8    100    -534    -16.0        -64.7
25    80    -12.0    -60.8    77    25.4    100    -499    -11.1        -59.8
26    89    -6.6    -55.4    60    19.8    100    -456    -5.0        -53.8
29    100    0.0    -48.8    96    31.7    100    -280    19.6        -29.1
32    100    0.0    -48.8    88    29.0    100    -201    30.7        -18.1
33    100    0.0    -48.8    67    22.1    100    -321    13.9        -34.9
39    100    0.0    -48.8    59    19.5    100    -340    11.2        -37.5
41    64    -21.6    -70.3    64    21.1    100    -579    -22.3        -71.0
43    100    0.0    -48.8    96    31.7    100    -280    19.6        -29.1
49    76    -14.4    -63.1    56    18.5    100    -527    -15.0        -63.7
 
#26 ·
This is a bizarre location for TV and radio reception.
Two edge signals tend to be pretty bizarre most of the time. They are often a mix of refracted and reflected signals plus they are weak enough to be totally overridden by tropo, either from their own signal or from other, more distant signals. Throw in some local IM distortion from strong local signals and it's a wonder they come in at all. At least you don't have a lot of strong local adjacent channels like we have here.
 
#27 ·
I also have my Insignia TV hooked up to the second output on the pre amp from the DAT 790. That TV has a SS meter. Would running that simultaneously with the SS Meter showing for a given channel at the same time I am using the Samsung's SNR readout help at all? The SS Meter on the Insignia is not all that great. Seems to read out by quarters out of 100. Zero, 25%, 50%, 75% and 100%. Never seems to read any percentage in between.
 
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